COSTUMES.ORG -- THE COSTUMER'S MANIFESTO WIKI

Difference between pages "1pagesDissertationLinks" and "1pagesDissertationNotes2"

(Difference between pages)
(1pagesDissertationLinks-- HTML Import)
 
(1pagesDissertationNotes2-- HTML Import)
 
Line 1: Line 1:
FASHION SHOWS, STRIP SHOWS AND BEAUTY PAGEANTS: Links
+
notes2Notes to Chapter II:
  
[[1pagesDissertationDissabst|FASHION SHOWS, STRIP SHOWS AND BEAUTY PAGEANTS:THE THEATRE OF THE FEMININE IDEAL]]
+
==1==
  
'''Links '''
+
. Deford, 224.
  
[http://www.exoticworldusa.org/|Exotic World]
+
2. Gorer, 80-1.
  
[http://www.clotheslinejournal.com/burlesque.html|Burlesque of the 1950s]
+
3. "Men Didn't Flinch at Fashion Show," New York Times 1 Sept. 1903: 9.
  
[[File:History100pagesStripper.htm|THE STRIPPER AS SEXUAL IDEAL]]
+
4. Alexander, 28.
  
[http://www.smithsonianmag.com/issues/2006/january/object.php|American Idol (On Miss America)]
+
5. "Fashion Show Opening," New York Times 1 Sept. 1903: 3.
  
[http://www.pbase.com/dudedelux/the_velvet_hammer|THE VELVET HAMMER @ THE EL REY THEATER 07/30/04 Photo Gallery]
+
6. Diana de Marly, Worth: Father of Haute Couture (London: Elm Tree, 1980) 140.
  
[[File:h.t| Striptease: The Untold History Of The Girlie Show]]
+
7. Duff-Gordon, 67, 69-70.
  
[[File:h.t| Burlesque: Legendary Stars of the Stage]]
+
8. O. Henry, pseud. "The Buyer From Cactus City," The Trimmed Lamp: And OtherStories of the Four Million (New York: Doubleday, 1920) 73-4.
  
[http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/amex/missamerica/|American Experience | Miss America]
+
==9==
  
[http://michaelprior.com/|Michael Prior Burlesque Images]
+
. Claudia B. Kidwell and Margaret C. Christman, Suiting Everyone: TheDemocratization of Clothing in America (Washington: Smithsonian, 1974) 137-9.
  
[http://www.pageantcenter.com/|Pageants! Beauty Pageants! Great Pageant Resources! Beauty Contests! Miss America, Miss USA, Miss Universe and more.]
+
10. "Plenty of Pockets in Suffragette Suit," New York Times 10 Oct. 1910:5.
  
[http://www.pageantcenter.com/history.html|The History of Pageant. Pageant History from the 1920s to 1999.]
+
11. Advertisement, San Francisco Call 10 Sep. 1911: 30.
  
[http://home.earthlink.net/~brinac/WomenPopEntertains.htm|Women and Popular Entertainments]
+
12. "Wonderlands," 11.
  
[http://www.clotheslinejournal.com/burlesque.html|Burlesque of the 1950s]
+
13. "Apricot Colored Directoire Seen," San Francisco Call 17 Jul. 1908:16.
  
[http://www.rhinestonesnruffles.com/RhinestonesNRu/Rhinestones_Nx.html|Rhinestones N Ruffles Pageant Wear (Children)]
+
14. "Wears Sheath Gown on Van Ness Avenue," San Francisco Call 17 Jul.1908: 16.
  
[http://www.ExoticDanceLessons.com/|Exotic Dance Lessons]
+
15. "Women's Gowns and Hats are Works of Art," San Francisco Call 15 Sep.1911: 11.
  
[[File:AmazonBooks10Beautypageants.jpeg]]
+
16. Grace Armistead Doyle, "Stunning Frills from Paris on Display," SanFrancisco Chronicle 12 Mar. 1914: 13.
  
[http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0531158748/thecostumersmani| Beauty Pageants: Tiaras, Roses, and Runways (First Books - Performances and Entertainment)]
+
==17==
  
[[File:AmazonBooks10Pageantthebeauty.jpeg]]
+
. Grace Armistead Doyle, "Even Mere Man is Interested in theDisplay," San Francisco Chronicle 13 Mar. 1914: 9.
  
[http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/3823855697/thecostumersmani| Pageant: The Beauty Contest]
+
18. "Style Display by Local Merchants," San Francisco Call 10 Sep. 1911:29.
  
[[File:AmazonBooks10Theresheismisamerica.jpeg]]
+
19. Diehl, 7.
  
[http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1403963029/thecostumersmani|: "There She Is, Miss America" : The Politics of Sex, Beauty, and Race in America's Most Famous Pageant]
+
20. Diehl, 7-8.
  
[[File:h.t| Wedding Bridal Headpiece : Antique Silver Tiara]]
+
21. Duff-Gordon, 78.
  
[http://www.jofreeman.com/photos/MissAm1969.html|The 1969 Miss America Protest- Atlantic City]
+
22. Lowry, "Rude," 19.
  
[http://www.beautyworlds.com/beautypageant.htm|History of the Beauty Pageant at Beauty Worlds]
+
23. Clarice Stasz Stoll, Female and Male: Socialization, Social Roles and SocialStructure (Dubuque: Wm. C. Brown, 1974) 116-8.
  
[http://www.folsomweb.com/models/redheads/cherrybombz/index.html|CHERRY Malone loves Burlesque]
+
24. Banner, 151-3.
  
[http://www.pageantsearch.net|Welcome To Pageantsearch.net!]
+
25. "The Weaker Sex No Longer," Harper's Bazaar V. XLV, No. 2, Feb. 1911:57.
  
[http://www.pageantrymagazine.com/index.html|Pageantry Online! -- Beauty Pageants, Fashion, Modeling News]
+
26. Marly, 175.
  
[http://www.stripperweb.com/index.html|StripperWeb - The online stripper community. strip club]
+
==27==
  
[http://www.exoticdancelessons.com/|Exotic dance lessons and exotic dance instructional videos. By exotic dancer SKY]
+
Barbara McFarland and Tyeis Baker-Baumann, Shame and Body Image:Culture and the Compulsive Eater (Deerfield Beach: Health Communications, 1990) 47.
  
[http://www.cancerhelp.org.uk/help/default.asp?page=3508|Mary Truran on Breast Cancer Fashion Shows]
+
28. McFarland, 67.
  
[http://www.beautyworlds.com/tocmodcult.htm|Beauty Worlds: Table of Contents: Beauty in Modern Culture]
+
29. Perutz, 213.
  
[http://www.beautyworlds.com/beautypageant.htm|History of the Beauty Pageant at Beauty Worlds]
+
30. Linda Tschirt Sanford and Mary Ellen Donovan, Women and Self Esteem (GardenCity: Anchor, 1984) 373-4.
  
[http://www.beautyworlds.com/beautypageantnews.htm|Beauty Worlds: Beauty Pageant News]
+
31. Sanford, 372.
  
[http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0415237343/thecostumersmani|Amazon.com: Books: Striptease Culture: Sex, Media and the Democratization of Desire]
+
32. McFarland, 66.
  
[http://www.alaskapageants.com/news.htm|AlaskaPageants.com - Alaska's Web Source for Pageant Information]
+
33. McFarland, 66-7.
  
[http://www.missalaskapageant.com/|Miss Alaska Scholarship Pageant, Inc.]
+
34. McFarland, 67.
  
[http://www.missamerica.org/|The Official Site of The Miss America Organization]
+
35. McFarland, 67.
  
[http://www.nostatusquo.com/ACLU/Nikki/BeautyClarke4.html|MYTH CALIFORNIA: But Is It Art Or Is It Politics?]
+
36. Perutz, 213.
  
[http://www.stripperverse.com/|StripPerverse]
+
==37==
  
[http://www.catholic-forum.com/saints/saintp54.htm|Patron Saints Index: Pelagia the Penitent]
+
. Perutz,233.
  
[http://www.cmp.ucr.edu/site/exhibitions/gradvohl/|UCR / CMP: Raoul Gradvohl Burlesque]
+
38. Perutz, 225.
  
[[Store100pagesKinky|Kinky Costume Links]]
+
39. Sanford, 378-9.
  
[http://nav.webring.yahoo.com/hub?ring=burlesquebabes&id=1&hub|Burlesque Babes Web Ring]
+
40. Alexander, 3-5.
  
[http://www.BurlesqueAsItWas.com/|Burlesque As It Was]
+
41. Minsky, 141.
  
[http://www.pontanisisters.com/|Greetings from Angie Pontani and the World Famous Pontani Sisters!]
+
42. Bernard Sobel, Burleycue: An Underground History of Burlesque Days (New York:Rinehart, 1931) 265.
  
[http://www.hannibal.net/stories/112798/Momstripper.html|Hannibal Courier-Post News Story Mom, stripper accused of lewd conduct at party 11/27/98]
+
43. Sobel, Burleycue, 267, 272.
  
Return to
+
44. "Misty" pseud., Strip! (Toronto: New Press, 1973) 179.
  
[[1pagesDissertationDissabst|Fashion Shows, Strip Shows and Beauty Pageants; The Theatre of the Feminine Ideal]]
+
45. Gorer, 54-5.
  
Related Books, Videos and Music at Amazon Com
+
46. Gorer, 48-55.
  
[http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0807843164/o/qid=984825343/thecostumersmani| Horrible Prettiness : Burlesque and American Culture (Cultural Studies of the United States)]
+
47. Elsom, 181.
  
[http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000006Q7X/thecostumersmani| Beauty Pageants-Bright Lights]
+
48. Alexander, 10-11.
  
[http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0786402628/thecostumersmani| Behind the G-String : An Exploration of the Stripper's Image, Her Person and Her Meaning]
+
49. English, 53.
  
[[File:h.t| A Bit of Burlesque : A Brief History of Its Times & Stars]]
+
==50==
  
[[File:h.t| Rank Ladies : Gender and Cultural Hierarchy in American Vaudeville (Gender and American Culture)]]
+
. Reginald Marsh, Gaiety Burlesk. Illus. on p 128 of ReginaldMarsh, by Lloyd Goodrich (New York: Abrams, 1972).
  
[[File:h.t| Posing a Threat: Flappers, Chorus Girls, and Other Brazen Performers of the American 1920s]]
+
51. Reginald Marsh, Eltinge Follies. Illus. on p 199 of Reginald Marsh, byLloyd Goodrich (New York: Abrams, 1972).
  
[[File:h.t| Strip City: A Stripper's Farewell Journey Across America]]
+
52. Alexander, 26.
  
[[File:h.t| Horrible Prettiness: Burlesque and American Culture (Cultural Studies of the United States)]]
+
53. Gary, Stripper
  
[[File:AmazonVideoSecretworldofbeautypageants.gif]]
+
54. Gale Miller, "Entertainment as Deviant Work," Odd Jobs: The World ofDeviant Work (Englewood Cliffs: Prentice Hall, 1978) 187.
  
[http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/6305374848/thecostumersmani|Video: The Secret World of Beauty Pageants]
+
55. Corio, 9-10, 14.
  
[[File:h.t| Striporama]]
+
56. Zeidman, 137, 139.
  
[[File:h.t| The Queens of Burlesque: Vintage Photographs of the 1940s and 1950s (Schiffer Pictorial Essay)]]
+
57. Alexander, 14-16.
  
[[File:h.t| Strip Show: Performances of Gender and Desire (Gender in Performance)]]
+
58. Alexander, 17-19.
  
[[File:h.t| Berlin Cabaret (Studies in Cultural History (Harvard Univ Pr))]]
+
59. Corio, 72.
  
[[File:h.t| Varietease]]
+
==60==
  
[[File:h.t| Bettie Page in Varietease]]
+
. Minsky, 33-4.
  
[http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00000K2GE/thecostumersmani|Teaserama]
+
61. Zeidman, 144.
  
[[File:h.t| Teaserama]]
+
62. Minsky, 112-5.
  
[[File:h.t| Catwalking : A History of the Fashion Model]]
+
63. Nancy Friday, Men in Love, Men's Sexual Fantasies: The Triumph of Love Over Rage (NewYork: Dell, 1980) 37-8.
  
[http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1557831890/thecostumersmani| The Best Burlesque Sketches]
+
64. Friday, Men 86.
  
Video:  
+
65. Warren Jamison, "Dear Abby," San Francisco Chronicle 12 Mar. 1990: F10.
  
[http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/6304005008/thecostumersmani|In the Flesh : The New York Strip Scene]
+
66. "Misty," 185-6.
  
[[File:h.t| The Most Beautiful Girl in the World: Beauty Pageants and National Identity]]
+
67. Susan Brownmiller, Femininity (New York: Fawcett, 1984) 41.
  
[[File:h.t| Beauty Queens on the Global Stage: Gender, Contests, and Power]]
+
68. Daphina Ayalah and Issac Weinstock, Breasts: Women Speak About Their Breasts andTheir Lives (New York: Summit, 1979) 75.
  
[[File:h.t| Catching The Crown]]
+
69. Blaze Starr and Huey Perry, Blaze Starr; My Life as Told to Huey Perry (NewYork: Simon and Schuster, 1974) 210-11.
  
[[File:h.t| Producing Beauty Pageants: A Director's Guide]]
+
==70==
  
[[File:h.t| Pageant: The Beauty Contest]]
+
. Tempest Storm and Bill Boyd, Tempest Storm: The Lady is a Vamp (Atlanta:Peachtree, 1987) 99-100.
  
[[File:h.t| Lady of Burlesque ]]
+
71. Tom Wolfe, The Pump House Gang (New York: Bantam, 1968) 70.
  
[[File:h.t| The Art of Exotic Dancing for Everyday Women]]
+
72. Gilbert Seldes, "Sugar and Spice and Not so Nice," Esquire Jan. 1934:120.
  
[[File:h.t| Take It Off!: Striptease Classics]]
+
73. John Hays, "Playboy Forum," Playboy Feb. 1980: 55.
  
[[File:h.t| Strip Jointz: Hot Songs For Sexy Dancers]]
+
74. Anonymous, "Playboy Forum," Playboy Feb. 1980: 55.
  
[[File:h.t| Strip Jointz Rocks: Rock N' Roll For Sexy Dancers]]
+
75. Friday, Men 15-16.
  
[[File:h.t| Las Vegas Grind Vol. 1]]
+
76. Gorer, 43.
  
[[File:h.t| How To Strip For Your Husband]]
+
77. Gorer, 48.
  
[http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0674067622/thecostumersmani| Berlin Cabaret (Studies in Cultural History (Harvard Univ Pr))]
+
78. Minsky, 97.
  
[[File:h.t| Cabaret Artist's Handbook : Creating Your Own Act in Today's Livliest Theater Setting]]
+
79. Zeidman, 152.
  
[[File:h.t| The Royalty of Negro Vaudeville : The Whitman Sisters and the Negotiation of Race, Gender and Class in African American Theatre, 1900-1940]]
+
80. Zeidman, 155-6.
  
[http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0764306030/thecostumersmani| The Bare Truth: Stars of Burlesque From the '40s and '50s]
+
81. "Misty", 119.
  
[[File:h.t| Day Stripper]]
+
82. Banner, 249-54.
  
[[File:h.t| The Full Monty (Widescreen Edition)]]
+
==83==
  
[[File:h.t| Dancing Naked in the Material World]]
+
. Deford, 111-2.
  
[[File:h.t]]
+
84. Deford, 119, 248, 270.
  
[http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink?ecostumes+QUJfvh+index.html]
+
85. Deford, 115-6.
 +
 
 +
86. Banner, 266.
 +
 
 +
87. Helen Bullit Lowry, "Innocence at Atlantic City," New York Times 11Sep. 1921: III 6.
 +
 
 +
88. Lowry, "Innocence," III 6.
 +
 
 +
89. Deford, 193-6.
 +
 
 +
90. Miss Universe, Miss USA, Miss Teen USA (Los Angeles: Madison Square GardenTelevision Productions, 1988) n.p.
 +
 
 +
91. Burwell, 17.
 +
 
 +
92. 1990 Judge's Committee, 8-9.
 +
 
 +
93. Farris, 89-91.
 +
 
 +
==94==
 +
 
 +
. Deford, 68.
 +
 
 +
95. Deford, 250-4.
 +
 
 +
96. "YWCA Opens War on Beauty Contests," New York Times 18 Apr. 1924: 21.
 +
 
 +
97. "Women Condemn Beauty Pageants," New York Times 18 Apr. 1924: 21.
 +
 
 +
98. "Attacks Bathing Review," New York Times 11 Sep. 1923: 15.
 +
 
 +
99. "Miss Indianapolis is Prettiest Girl," New York Times 8 Sep. 1922:17.
 +
 
 +
100. Deford, 129-30.
 +
 
 +
101. Burwell, xvi.
 +
 
 +
102. 1990 Judges, 8-9.
 +
 
 +
103. Sandra McElwaine, "The Deadly Serious Game of the Beauty Pageant," CosmopolitanSep. 1989: 219.
 +
 
 +
104. Hadley Cantril, Ed., Public Opinion 1935-1946 (Princeton: Princeton U, 1951)1044.
 +
 
 +
==105==
 +
 
 +
. Deford, 167.
 +
 
 +
106. George Gallup, The Gallup Poll: Public Opinion 1972-1977 (Wilmington:Scholarly Resources, 1978) 702.
 +
 
 +
107. George Gallup Jr., The Gallup Poll: Public Opinion 1984 (Wilmington: ScholarlyResources, 1985) 120.
 +
 
 +
==108==
 +
 
 +
. "Contrary to popular belief, size---at least the Misses sizerange now applicable to adult women does not 'arbitrarily assign number codes for eachsize.' There was, once, a meaning to the numbers. In the beginning, size was not a size atall, but an age. A size 12 was meant for a 'miss' of age 12...Adult women were presumed tohave well-developed, 'mature figures' with low hiplines and bustlines, both significantlylarger than waistlines...'Misses' sizes were designed pure and simple for misses, oradolescent girls...the 1901 Sears, Roebuck catalog advised...'A misses garment, whilemeasuring 34 or 36 inches around the bust, will not fit a well-developed woman measuringthe same'...intended for an adolescent body, [it] was cut straighter through the torso,with less of an indentation for waist, less pronounced hips, than the women's sizes. Whenthe concept of 'misses' sizes was later extended to all adult women, one basic fact wentalong on the garment rack: In early maturity, for which misses sizes were originallyintended...90% of people can fit standard sizes for those ages...but by 20 to 24 yearsonly about half the adults can be cared for with standard sizes...from...45 up, only athird can be fitted with standard sizes. Today's system of fashion...makes figurevariability an oddity, instead of recognizing it as the prevailing biological fact that itis."--Hara Estroff Marano, Style is Not A Size (New York: Bantam, 1991) 16-17.
 +
 
 +
Back to
 +
 
 +
[[1pagesDissertationDissabst|191727.375060708394105108 Dissertation Index]]
 +
 
 +
[[File:h.t]]

Revision as of 01:36, 23 January 2014

notes2Notes to Chapter II:

1

. Deford, 224.

2. Gorer, 80-1.

3. "Men Didn't Flinch at Fashion Show," New York Times 1 Sept. 1903: 9.

4. Alexander, 28.

5. "Fashion Show Opening," New York Times 1 Sept. 1903: 3.

6. Diana de Marly, Worth: Father of Haute Couture (London: Elm Tree, 1980) 140.

7. Duff-Gordon, 67, 69-70.

8. O. Henry, pseud. "The Buyer From Cactus City," The Trimmed Lamp: And OtherStories of the Four Million (New York: Doubleday, 1920) 73-4.

9

. Claudia B. Kidwell and Margaret C. Christman, Suiting Everyone: TheDemocratization of Clothing in America (Washington: Smithsonian, 1974) 137-9.

10. "Plenty of Pockets in Suffragette Suit," New York Times 10 Oct. 1910:5.

11. Advertisement, San Francisco Call 10 Sep. 1911: 30.

12. "Wonderlands," 11.

13. "Apricot Colored Directoire Seen," San Francisco Call 17 Jul. 1908:16.

14. "Wears Sheath Gown on Van Ness Avenue," San Francisco Call 17 Jul.1908: 16.

15. "Women's Gowns and Hats are Works of Art," San Francisco Call 15 Sep.1911: 11.

16. Grace Armistead Doyle, "Stunning Frills from Paris on Display," SanFrancisco Chronicle 12 Mar. 1914: 13.

17

. Grace Armistead Doyle, "Even Mere Man is Interested in theDisplay," San Francisco Chronicle 13 Mar. 1914: 9.

18. "Style Display by Local Merchants," San Francisco Call 10 Sep. 1911:29.

19. Diehl, 7.

20. Diehl, 7-8.

21. Duff-Gordon, 78.

22. Lowry, "Rude," 19.

23. Clarice Stasz Stoll, Female and Male: Socialization, Social Roles and SocialStructure (Dubuque: Wm. C. Brown, 1974) 116-8.

24. Banner, 151-3.

25. "The Weaker Sex No Longer," Harper's Bazaar V. XLV, No. 2, Feb. 1911:57.

26. Marly, 175.

27

Barbara McFarland and Tyeis Baker-Baumann, Shame and Body Image:Culture and the Compulsive Eater (Deerfield Beach: Health Communications, 1990) 47.

28. McFarland, 67.

29. Perutz, 213.

30. Linda Tschirt Sanford and Mary Ellen Donovan, Women and Self Esteem (GardenCity: Anchor, 1984) 373-4.

31. Sanford, 372.

32. McFarland, 66.

33. McFarland, 66-7.

34. McFarland, 67.

35. McFarland, 67.

36. Perutz, 213.

37

. Perutz,233.

38. Perutz, 225.

39. Sanford, 378-9.

40. Alexander, 3-5.

41. Minsky, 141.

42. Bernard Sobel, Burleycue: An Underground History of Burlesque Days (New York:Rinehart, 1931) 265.

43. Sobel, Burleycue, 267, 272.

44. "Misty" pseud., Strip! (Toronto: New Press, 1973) 179.

45. Gorer, 54-5.

46. Gorer, 48-55.

47. Elsom, 181.

48. Alexander, 10-11.

49. English, 53.

50

. Reginald Marsh, Gaiety Burlesk. Illus. on p 128 of ReginaldMarsh, by Lloyd Goodrich (New York: Abrams, 1972).

51. Reginald Marsh, Eltinge Follies. Illus. on p 199 of Reginald Marsh, byLloyd Goodrich (New York: Abrams, 1972).

52. Alexander, 26.

53. Gary, Stripper

54. Gale Miller, "Entertainment as Deviant Work," Odd Jobs: The World ofDeviant Work (Englewood Cliffs: Prentice Hall, 1978) 187.

55. Corio, 9-10, 14.

56. Zeidman, 137, 139.

57. Alexander, 14-16.

58. Alexander, 17-19.

59. Corio, 72.

60

. Minsky, 33-4.

61. Zeidman, 144.

62. Minsky, 112-5.

63. Nancy Friday, Men in Love, Men's Sexual Fantasies: The Triumph of Love Over Rage (NewYork: Dell, 1980) 37-8.

64. Friday, Men 86.

65. Warren Jamison, "Dear Abby," San Francisco Chronicle 12 Mar. 1990: F10.

66. "Misty," 185-6.

67. Susan Brownmiller, Femininity (New York: Fawcett, 1984) 41.

68. Daphina Ayalah and Issac Weinstock, Breasts: Women Speak About Their Breasts andTheir Lives (New York: Summit, 1979) 75.

69. Blaze Starr and Huey Perry, Blaze Starr; My Life as Told to Huey Perry (NewYork: Simon and Schuster, 1974) 210-11.

70

. Tempest Storm and Bill Boyd, Tempest Storm: The Lady is a Vamp (Atlanta:Peachtree, 1987) 99-100.

71. Tom Wolfe, The Pump House Gang (New York: Bantam, 1968) 70.

72. Gilbert Seldes, "Sugar and Spice and Not so Nice," Esquire Jan. 1934:120.

73. John Hays, "Playboy Forum," Playboy Feb. 1980: 55.

74. Anonymous, "Playboy Forum," Playboy Feb. 1980: 55.

75. Friday, Men 15-16.

76. Gorer, 43.

77. Gorer, 48.

78. Minsky, 97.

79. Zeidman, 152.

80. Zeidman, 155-6.

81. "Misty", 119.

82. Banner, 249-54.

83

. Deford, 111-2.

84. Deford, 119, 248, 270.

85. Deford, 115-6.

86. Banner, 266.

87. Helen Bullit Lowry, "Innocence at Atlantic City," New York Times 11Sep. 1921: III 6.

88. Lowry, "Innocence," III 6.

89. Deford, 193-6.

90. Miss Universe, Miss USA, Miss Teen USA (Los Angeles: Madison Square GardenTelevision Productions, 1988) n.p.

91. Burwell, 17.

92. 1990 Judge's Committee, 8-9.

93. Farris, 89-91.

94

. Deford, 68.

95. Deford, 250-4.

96. "YWCA Opens War on Beauty Contests," New York Times 18 Apr. 1924: 21.

97. "Women Condemn Beauty Pageants," New York Times 18 Apr. 1924: 21.

98. "Attacks Bathing Review," New York Times 11 Sep. 1923: 15.

99. "Miss Indianapolis is Prettiest Girl," New York Times 8 Sep. 1922:17.

100. Deford, 129-30.

101. Burwell, xvi.

102. 1990 Judges, 8-9.

103. Sandra McElwaine, "The Deadly Serious Game of the Beauty Pageant," CosmopolitanSep. 1989: 219.

104. Hadley Cantril, Ed., Public Opinion 1935-1946 (Princeton: Princeton U, 1951)1044.

105

. Deford, 167.

106. George Gallup, The Gallup Poll: Public Opinion 1972-1977 (Wilmington:Scholarly Resources, 1978) 702.

107. George Gallup Jr., The Gallup Poll: Public Opinion 1984 (Wilmington: ScholarlyResources, 1985) 120.

108

. "Contrary to popular belief, size---at least the Misses sizerange now applicable to adult women does not 'arbitrarily assign number codes for eachsize.' There was, once, a meaning to the numbers. In the beginning, size was not a size atall, but an age. A size 12 was meant for a 'miss' of age 12...Adult women were presumed tohave well-developed, 'mature figures' with low hiplines and bustlines, both significantlylarger than waistlines...'Misses' sizes were designed pure and simple for misses, oradolescent girls...the 1901 Sears, Roebuck catalog advised...'A misses garment, whilemeasuring 34 or 36 inches around the bust, will not fit a well-developed woman measuringthe same'...intended for an adolescent body, [it] was cut straighter through the torso,with less of an indentation for waist, less pronounced hips, than the women's sizes. Whenthe concept of 'misses' sizes was later extended to all adult women, one basic fact wentalong on the garment rack: In early maturity, for which misses sizes were originallyintended...90% of people can fit standard sizes for those ages...but by 20 to 24 yearsonly about half the adults can be cared for with standard sizes...from...45 up, only athird can be fitted with standard sizes. Today's system of fashion...makes figurevariability an oddity, instead of recognizing it as the prevailing biological fact that itis."--Hara Estroff Marano, Style is Not A Size (New York: Bantam, 1991) 16-17.

Back to

191727.375060708394105108 Dissertation Index

File:H.t

This Page is part of The Costumer's Manifesto, originally founded by Tara Maginnis, Ph.D. from 1996-2014, now flying free as a wiki for all to edit and contribute. Site maintained, hosted, and wikified by Andrew Kahn. Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike License; additional terms may apply. See Terms of Use for details. You may print out any of these pages for non-profit educational use such as school papers, teacher handouts, or wall displays. You may link to any page in this site.