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  <a href="rusportraits.htm"><b>Russian Portraits from the Age of Chechov</b></a></p>
  
<p><b><span lang="en-us">The Norwegian Bunad</span></b></p>
+
<p align="center">These notebook pages
 +
were done as part of my research process for <a href="../../SHOWS/100pages/SEAGULL.HTM">The Seagull.</a>
 +
click images for larger views</p>
  
<p>
+
  <p align="center"><font size="4" face="Lucida Handwriting"><strong><a href="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port1.gif">
<a href="../../history/victorian/women/fashionplates/1870sgermanpeasants.jpg">
+
  <img src="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port1t.gif" border="0" width="91" height="144"></a> <a href="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port10.gif">
<img border="2" src="1870sgermanpeasants_small.jpg" xthumbnail-orig-image="../../history/victorian/women/fashionplates/1870sgermanpeasants.jpg" width="100" height="137"></a></p>
+
  <img src="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port10t.gif" border="0" width="115" height="144"></a> <a href="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port11.gif">
<p><i>I got this handy letter from a fan who wrote in this correction with
+
  <img src="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port11t.gif" border="0" width="98" height="144"></a> <a href="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port12.gif">
useful links:</i></p>
+
  <img src="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port12t.gif" border="0" width="88" height="144"></a> <a href="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port13.gif">
<p>At <a href="file:///D:/My%20Documents/My%20Webs/Manifesto/history/100pages/timelinepages/1870s1.htm">http://www.costumes.org/pages/timelinepages/1870s1.htm</a>&nbsp;<br>
+
  <img src="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port13t.gif" border="0" width="119" height="144"></a> <a href="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port14.gif">
the plate <a href="file:///D:/My%20Documents/My%20Webs/Manifesto/history/victorian/women/fashionplates/1870sgermanpeasants.jpg">http://www.costumes.org/history/victorian/women/fashionplates/1870sgermanpeasants.jpg</a>
+
  <img src="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port14t.gif" border="0" width="91" height="144"></a> <a href="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port15.gif">
is described as German peasants. This is incorrect.</p>
+
  <img src="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port15t.gif" border="0" width="97" height="144"></a> <a href="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port16.gif">
<p>Telemark (spelt TELLEMARK in the drawing) is a county in the south of<br>
+
  <img src="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port16t.gif" border="0" width="112" height="144"></a> <a href="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port17.gif">
Norway. The woman's clothes is what we now generally refer to as<br>
+
  <img src="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port17t.gif" border="0" width="86" height="144"></a> <a href="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port2.gif">
"Telemarksbunad", and still use for special occasions.&nbsp;<br>
+
  <img src="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port2t.gif" border="0" width="99" height="144"></a> <a href="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port3.gif">
<br>
+
  <img src="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port3t.gif" border="0" width="81" height="144"></a> <a href="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port4.gif">
The plate is a typical painting of "exotic" rural Norway.<br>
+
  <img src="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port4t.gif" border="0" width="90" height="144"></a> <a href="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port5.gif">
There is a bunad called Raudtr�yebunad which means red jacket bunad, which<br>
+
  <img src="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port5t.gif" border="0" width="85" height="144"></a> <a href="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port6.gif">
has exactly the same red Spencer.<br>
+
  <img src="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port6t.gif" border="0" width="144" height="90"></a> <a href="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port7.gif">
<br>
+
  <img src="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port7t.gif" border="0" width="78" height="144"></a> <a href="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port8.gif">
I don't know how much you know about this topic, but here is a short<br>
+
  <img src="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port8t.gif" border="0" width="109" height="144"></a> <a href="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port9.gif">
explanation anyway (mind I'm not an expert on the topic, I only have 3<br>
+
  <img src="../../history/20thcent/1900s/chechovnotebook/port9t.gif" border="0" width="88" height="144"></a></strong></font></p>
books about it :) ).<br>
+
<br>
+
You can look at pictures of Norwegian folk costumes at<br>
+
<b>broken link&nbsp;</b><br>
+
<br>
+
Almost every Norwegian woman has a bunad, often they are passed down from<br>
+
mother to daughter or granddaughter as I inherited mine from my<br>
+
grandmother, or when a child grows out of his or her bunad, or you can buy<br>
+
material and make one, or buy one finished. They show what part of Norway<br>
+
you identify yourself with.<br>
+
<br>
+
Bunads are divided into two categories:&nbsp;<br>
+
<br>
+
1: Bunads which have been in continuous use<br>
+
2: Bunads reconstructed from old clothes.<br>
+
<br>
+
There are hundreds of different bunads, each valley or town has its own,<br>
+
some in several varieties (colours). The fashion of bunads started around<br>
+
1900, when Norway was in a very national romantic time, just becoming a<br>
+
country with its own king again etc. The interest for the old and rural was<br>
+
strong, traditional dancing was in fashion, and they needed costumes, and<br>
+
so, they went out and found suitable old clothes, changed them to fit the<br>
+
fashion of the time, and the bunad was "invented".<br>
+
<br>
+
Regards, Anne Innes.<br>
+
PS: I find the Manifesto most useful. DS.</p>
+
<p><i>Thanks for the wonderful information!  Can I post it?  ---Tara<br>
+
</i><br>
+
Please do!&nbsp;<br>
+
<br>
+
Bunad is an old Norse word which simply means clothing.&nbsp;<br>
+
<br>
+
I did some quick surfing and found this link to someone's page, the<br>
+
description is rather good and there are nice photos.<br>
+
<b>broken link<br>
+
</b>
+
<br>
+
If you are interested, I have some photos of my bunads (I have two).<br>
+
<br>
+
The first one is the one I inherited from my grandmother. I sort of<br>
+
"outgrew" the bodice (liv) (originally the same material as the skirt<br>
+
(stakk)) and made a new one in red brocade last year. The brocade is a copy<br>
+
of an old Italian pattern. It is lined with linen, and fastened with<br>
+
invisible hooks in the front. The skirt is wool. I wear a short shirt<br>
+
(skjorte) of thin cotton, and a cotton underskirt.&nbsp;<br>
+
<br>
+
My bunad was made in the 1930s (I believe), and was given to my<br>
+
grandmother, who was a doctor, with another bunad during the war, probably<br>
+
by a patient in exchange for some services.&nbsp;<br>
+
<br>
+
The Gausdalsbunad is not exactly a historical copy. It is more a copy of a<br>
+
general style from Gudbrandsdalen (Gausdal being a side valley to<br>
+
Gudbrandsdalen), made in the same shape. Probably the first were made out<br>
+
of ordinary fabrics for furniture. I guess Gausdal also wanted to have<br>
+
their own bunad, and used the generic shape from Gudbrandsdalen and some<br>
+
fabrics they "liked".&nbsp;<br>
+
<br>
+
This shape is from the 1830s. The skirt is sewn to the bodice for the first<br>
+
time (separate bodices in the 1700s), and the waist is rather high, but<br>
+
lower than empire.&nbsp;<br>
+
Fore some reason my bunad did not have a purse.<br>
+
<br>
+
Photo at:&nbsp;<br>
+
&nbsp;<a href="http://www.uio.no/~annei/photos/marianne_anne_bunad.jpg">http://www.uio.no/~annei/photos/syttende.jpg</a></p>
+
<p>&nbsp;<a href="http://www.uio.no/~annei/photos/marianne_anne_bunad.jpg">http://www.uio.no/~annei/photos/marianne_anne_bunad.jpg<br>
+
</a><br>
+
As I feel no real connection with Gausdal, I made an Akerdrakt in empire<br>
+
style (from Oslo) last year. You can read more about it on my homepage at<br>
+
<a href="http://www.uio.no/~annei/myself.html#interests">http://www.uio.no/~annei/myself.html#interests</a><br>
+
It's completely hand sewn. There is a long linen underdress (serk), a<br>
+
woolen skirt (stakk) held up with woven bands over the shoulders. The<br>
+
bodice (liv) is of wool, lined with linen. There is also a Spencer to go<br>
+
with it, but I wasn't wearing it in the photos. The apron is block-printed<br>
+
on cotton, after a Swedish pattern. The reconstruction is new. There is<br>
+
also a men's version. It's a folk costume, not a bunad as such.<br>
+
<br>
+
Photos at:&nbsp;<br>
+
<a href="http://www.uio.no/~annei/url/syttende/resultater.html">http://www.uio.no/~annei/url/syttende/resultater.html</a><br>
+
<br>
+
<br>
+
Finally, I should explain that I'm not an educated costume designer. I make<br>
+
things for live roleplaying. I make historical things from different books or ask friends to copy their<br>
+
clothes, we have a wonderful community at the University and in Oslo. <br>
+
<br>
+
-anne.
+
</p>
+
<p>Another Bunad Link: <A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/bunads/" ADD_DATE="967789025" LAST_VISIT="967789122" LAST_MODIFIED="967789007">Norske Bunader</A>
+
  
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  <p align="center"><small><font face="Arial"><font color="#000000">This Page is
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  <font FACE="Arial" color="#000000">by </font>
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<p align="center"><small><font face="Arial"><font color="#000000">This Page is part of </font><font FACE="Arial" color="#FF0000"><a HREF="http://www.costumes.org">The Costumer's Manifesto</a>
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</font><font FACE="Arial" color="#000000">by </font><font FACE="Arial" color="#FF0000"><a href="mailto:tara@costumes.org">Tara Maginnis</a></font><font color="#000000">, Ph.D.&nbsp; </font></font><font FACE="Arial" color="#000000">Copyright
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1996-2010.&nbsp;&nbsp; You may print out any of
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</a><a href="../../history/100pages/maincostumesites.htm">Major Sites</a><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Tara/My%20Documents/My%20Webs/Manifesto/history/100pages/maincostumesites.htm">
</a><a href="../../history/100pages/militaryuniforms.htm">Military Uniforms</a><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Tara/My%20Documents/My%20Webs/Manifesto/history/100pages/maincostumesites.htm">
</a><a href="../../mwbh/100pages/mwbh.htm">Movie Costumes</a><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Tara/My%20Documents/My%20Webs/Manifesto/mwbh/100pages/mwbh.htm">
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</a><a href="../../advice/1pages/pattern_links.htm">Patterns</a><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Tara/My%20Documents/My%20Webs/Manifesto/advice/1pages/pattern_links.htm">
</a><a href="../../advice/1pages/questions.htm">Questions?</a><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Tara/My%20Documents/My%20Webs/Manifesto/advice/1pages/questions.htm">
</a><a href="../../history/100pages/religious_costume.htm">Religious Dress</a><a href="../../store/100pages/sponsorinfo.htm">
</a><a href="../../history/100pages/thrcostlinks.htm">Theatre History</a><a href="../../classes/uafcostumeshop/uafcostweb.htm">
</a><a href="../../travel/00pages/uktour/uktripindex.htm">Travel for Costumers</a><a href="../../advice/1pages/unite.htm">
Unite!</a><a href="../../ADVICE/1pages/UNITE.HTM">
</a><a href="../../history/100pages/VINTAGE.HTM">Vintage Clothing</a><a href="../../ADVICE/1pages/costdesign.htm">
</a><a href="../../history/100pages/bridal.htm">Weddings</a><a href="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Tara/My%20Documents/My%20Webs/Manifesto/mwbh/100pages/mwbh.htm">
</a><a href="../../store/100pages/weird.htm">Weird Clothing</a>

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<p align="center">This Page is part of <a HREF="http://www.costumes.org">The Costumer's Manifesto</a> by <a href="mailto:tara@costumes.org">Tara Maginnis</a>, Ph.D.  Copyright 1996-2010.   You may print out any of these pages for non-profit educational use such as school papers, teacher handouts, or wall displays.  You may link to any page in my site.</small></p>

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"The Costumer's Manifesto"
by Tara Maginnis