COSTUMES.ORG -- THE COSTUMER'S MANIFESTO WIKI

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The Costumer's Manifesto: Bridal Lengha into a Court Mantua The Mantua ProjectThis project is not yet complete. At present I have only photos showing some of the steps I am taking to take an East Indian Salwar (long tunic), Bridal Lengha (skirt), matching Salwar and Dupatta (scarf), and re-cut and sew them into a c.1710 English style court Mantua.

The Original garments before alterations:

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MantuaMantuaPict0064.jpgThe corsage embroidery on the extra salwar is cut out and made into a stomacher:

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MantuaMantuaPict0115.jpg Buckram is cut to stiffen the inside of the stomacher:

MantuaMantuaPict0116.jpg The shoulder pieces are removed and saved:

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MantuaMantuaPict0118.jpg Lining fabric is cut to enclose the buckram.

MantuaMantuaPict0119.jpg The lining and embroidery are sewn together into a pocket into which the buckram is sewn.

MantuaMantuaPict0120.jpgThe shoulder leftovers are stuck together to make a useable piece:

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The needed undergarments are put on the form in preparation for draping the mantua:

MantuaMantuaPict0121.jpgThe stays have been covered with a silk that closely matches the dress, so that if the shoulder straps shift during wear, the stays will appear to be part of the neckline of the finished dress.

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The stomacher is pinned to the stays.

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The lengha is put over the hoop to figure out what changes will need to be made to the skirt.

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The section where the shot silk is set in on a different grain becomes very obvious when put over a hoop, so plans are made to shift this section partly towards the back when the waistline is re-designed.

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The center back seam with the mismatched embroidery will be re-assembled to match better, and shifted to become a side-seam.

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Matching red cotton, taken from the lining of one of the salwars is draped around the form, cut, and sewn to make a simple inner bodice to which the draping of the mantua can be sewn.

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The bridal salwar sleeves are twiddled with to see how best to turn them into an 18th Century style:

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The bridal salwar is disassembled.

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The sleeves of the other salwar are disassembled:

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The salwar fronts are draped and cut to form the side front of the bodice continuing down into the side front of the skirt

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This page last edited on

"The Costumer's Manifesto"
by Tara Maginnis