The Costumer's Manifesto: Bridal Lengha into a Court Mantua The Mantua ProjectThis project is not yet complete. At present I have only photos showing some of the steps I am taking to take an East Indian Salwar (long tunic), Bridal Lengha (skirt), matching Salwar and Dupatta (scarf), and re-cut and sew them into a c.1710 English style court Mantua.
The Original garments before alterations:
The needed undergarments are put on the form in preparation for draping the mantua:
The stomacher is pinned to the stays.
The lengha is put over the hoop to figure out what changes will need to be made to the skirt.
The section where the shot silk is set in on a different grain becomes very obvious when put over a hoop, so plans are made to shift this section partly towards the back when the waistline is re-designed.
The center back seam with the mismatched embroidery will be re-assembled to match better, and shifted to become a side-seam.
Matching red cotton, taken from the lining of one of the salwars is draped around the form, cut, and sewn to make a simple inner bodice to which the draping of the mantua can be sewn.
The bridal salwar sleeves are twiddled with to see how best to turn them into an 18th Century style:
The bridal salwar is disassembled.
The sleeves of the other salwar are disassembled:
The salwar fronts are draped and cut to form the side front of the bodice continuing down into the side front of the skirt
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