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Making your Own 18th Century Men's Wigs Project at The Costumer'sManifesto Costume Design & Construction '''Making your Own 18th Century Men's Wigs Project (20C)'''
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The Costumer's Manifesto: Bridal Lengha into a Court Mantua '''The Mantua Project'''This project is not yet complete. At present I have only photos showing some of the steps I am taking to take an East Indian Salwar (long tunic), Bridal Lengha (skirt), matching Salwar and Dupatta (scarf), and re-cut and sew them into a c.1710 English style court Mantua.
  
When researching past productions of
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The Original garments before alterations:
  
[[Shows100pagesLiasions1|Les Liasons Dangereuses]] on the net I noticed that lots of the photos had an inappropriate comic-opera feel because the wigs used were standard spun glass "colonial" type wigs that look more like what liveried footmen wore than actual gentleman's wigs of the period. I decided that instead of buying new wigs ("colonial" or otherwise) I'd try to have us make ones for the gentlemen and Azolan out of old wiglets of human hair. Here is how we did it:
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0055.jpg]]
  
[[File:Makeup2002CorrectiveMvc-004f.jpg]] Stephanie pulls apart a early 1960's human hair wiglet so we will have strips of human hair for the men's wigs. We have a couple of dozen of these "bubble" wiglets in assorted colors that are never used but which have been saved for the hair on them, for just such an eventuality.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0056.jpg]]
  
[[File:Images254finals2002Mvc-025f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0057.jpg]]
  
[[File:Images254finals2002Mvc-026f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0054.jpg]]
  
[[File:h.t]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0053.jpg]]
  
[[File:h.t]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0039.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build3Mvc-002f.jpg]] The bits of hair are sorted by color, and thread selected that matches the hair, for later sewing on the rows.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0040.jpg]]
  
[[File:Makeup2002CorrectiveMvc-007f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0041.jpg]]
  
[[File:Makeup2002CorrectiveMvc-008f.jpg]] I sew slightly stretchy nylon/lycra net into a wig cap for Azolan, binding the edges with bias tape. I later found that I needed to trim a space for ear holes and rebind in those spots. Strips of the hair from the wiglet above are sewn to the cap, STARTING FROM THE BACK AND THE BOTTOM, WORKING UP to make a wig.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0043.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build1Mvc-012f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0044.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build1Mvc-013f.jpg]] Azolan wig made on the cap above. Slight alterations need to be made to this wig because the back is not low enough, and the area at the temples needs a slight extension and stiffening.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0045.jpg]]
  
[[File:Photos5Mvc-003f.jpg]] How it looks after alterations.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0046.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build1Mvc-001f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0047.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build1Mvc-002f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0048.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build1Mvc-006f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0049.jpg]]
  
Wig cap made for Danceny, incorporating things learned while making the Azolan wig.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0050.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build3Mvc-003f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0051.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build3Mvc-008f.jpg]] Blonde hair is sewn into rows with a part for Danceny.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0052.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build3Mvc-005f.jpg]] The wig before curling and cutting.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0058.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build7Mvc-020f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0059.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build7Mvc-021f.jpg]] the internal construction of the wig, with Ridgline boning on all the points and an elastic drawstring casing running around the inside.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0060.jpg]]
  
[[File:254images9Pict0096.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0062.jpg]]
  
[[File:254images9Pict0097.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0063.jpg]]
  
[[File:254images9Pict0098.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0064.jpg]]The corsage embroidery on the extra salwar is cut out and made into a stomacher:
  
The curled wig gets a first fitting:
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0114.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build5Mvc-001f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0115.jpg]] Buckram is cut to stiffen the inside of the stomacher:
  
[[File:Build5Mvc-002f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0116.jpg]] The shoulder pieces are removed and saved:
  
[[File:Build5Mvc-003f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0117.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build5Mvc-004f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0118.jpg]] Lining fabric is cut to enclose the buckram.
  
I decide the front needs to show the curved 18th Century "male" hairline better, so I slightly alter the style to make it less girly-looking.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0119.jpg]] The lining and embroidery are sewn together into a pocket into which the buckram is sewn.  
  
[[File:Build5Mvc-025f.jpg]] The changes
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0120.jpg]]The shoulder leftovers are stuck together to make a useable piece:
  
[[File:Build6Mvc-001f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0146.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build6Mvc-002f.jpg]]final fitting. It is decided to reduce the side curls to 2, and angle them more sharply.
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The needed undergarments are put on the form in preparation for draping the mantua:
  
[[File:Build7Mvc-019f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0121.jpg]]The stays have been covered with a silk that closely matches the dress, so that if the shoulder straps shift during wear, the stays will appear to be part of the neckline of the finished dress.
  
[[File:Build7Mvc-026f.jpg]] a wig bag is made with a hair bow clip to attach it.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0122.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build7Mvc-016f.jpg]]
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The stomacher is pinned to the stays.
  
[[File:Build7Mvc-017f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0123.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build7Mvc-018f.jpg]]
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The lengha is put over the hoop to figure out what changes will need to be made to the skirt.
  
Once the style has been seen to work at first dress, the wig is sprayed firmly, and covered with hairnets that are sewn to the inside edges to keep the wig perfectly smooth.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0124.jpg]]
  
[[File:Photos5Mvc-008f.jpg]] How it looks.
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The section where the shot silk is set in on a different grain becomes very obvious when put over a hoop, so plans are made to shift this section partly towards the back when the waistline is re-designed.
  
[[File:Photos1Mvc-004f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0125.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build1Mvc-008f.jpg]]
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The center back seam with the mismatched embroidery will be re-assembled to match better, and shifted to become a side-seam.
  
[[File:Build1Mvc-009f.jpg]] Beginning the wig cap for Valmont. The stretch net is draped loosely on the head form, and stitched down in darts before fitting.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0126.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build2Mvc-021f.jpg]] Fitting the cap. The hairline edges are marked with chalk.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0127.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build2Cap1.jpg]]
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Matching red cotton, taken from the lining of one of the salwars is draped around the form, cut, and sewn to make a simple inner bodice to which the draping of the mantua can be sewn.
  
[[File:Build2Cap2.jpg]] The cap is trimmed to size. (we later find that the wig "shrinks" slightly while being worked on, so it is better to cut it slightly oversize, rather than having to extend the back as we did later).
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0128.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build3Mvc-013f.jpg]] Sewing on seam tape, hat wire (in the front edge) , & Ridgeline stays at the temples.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0129.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build5Mvc-026f.jpg]] Completed wig on a form.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0130.jpg]]
  
After figuring out how often Valmont needs to take his wig on and off on stage, (about five times each, plus he gets smacked about in the face 4-5 times in one scene with Merteuil till it comes off in the fight) I add a stretchy-comb to the front edge inside so that it won't slip back (except during that scene), and an elastic band inside to quickly and easily grip when it is stuck on:  
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0131.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build7Mvc-022f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0132.jpg]]
  
A hair clip is sewn to the wig bag so it is easy to take off for re-dressing.  
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0133.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build7Mvc-024f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0134.jpg]]
  
The top is covered with sewn on hair nets like Danceny's to keep it from needing total re-grooming every day.  
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0135.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build7Mvc-025f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0136.jpg]]
  
[[File:KadePhotocallBrian0110.jpg]]Photo by
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The bridal salwar sleeves are twiddled with to see how best to turn them into an 18th Century style:  
  
[http://www.uaf.edu/theatre/archives/liaisons/|Kade Mendelowitz]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0137.jpg]]
  
[http://www.uaf.edu/theatre/archives/liaisons/]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0138.jpg]]
  
[[File:Photos5Mvc-018f.jpg]]You can learn more about real 18th Century men's wigs at my
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0139.jpg]]
  
[[History100pages18thhair|18th Century Hair Page]]
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The bridal salwar is disassembled.
  
If you can't obtain materials locally, you can but hair products at
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0141.jpg]]
  
[[File:h.t]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0142.jpg]]
  
'''
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0143.jpg]]
  
==What To Do==
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0144.jpg]]
  
'''
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The sleeves of the other salwar are disassembled:
  
'''Step 1: '''Gather together the necessary materials:
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0145.jpg]]
  
A drawing or source photo of how you want the finished wig to look for reference.
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The salwar fronts are draped and cut to form the side front of the bodice continuing down into the side front of the skirt
  
A bag of 6-8" long strips of hair taken from a wiglet or wig (about 1 & 1/2 wiglets, or 3/4 of a wig of hair will do. You can use fake hair, but real hair works a little easier with this project),
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0140.jpg]]
  
1/2 a yard of slightly stretchy heavy netting in a color similar to the hair color you want
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0147.jpg]]
  
1 yard of bias tape in the hair color
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0153.jpg]]
  
A matching hairnet
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0154.jpg]]
  
Matching thread and a hand sewing needle
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0149.jpg]]
  
A large (head size) head block that can be pinned into
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0150.jpg]]
  
14" of rigeline boning
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0148.jpg]]
  
A small flexible wig comb
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0151.jpg]]
  
T pins
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0152.jpg]]
  
Hair pins
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0155.jpg]]
  
A curling iron
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0156.jpg]]
  
Hair spray and/or setting gel
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0157.jpg]]
  
10" of narrow elastic
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0158.jpg]]
  
Decorative ribbon or "wig bag"
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0159.jpg]]
  
'''Step 2:''' Pin the net loosely around the head form, and stitch in tucks to make a loose head cap shape:
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0160.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build1Mvc-008f.jpg|What To Do]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0161.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build1Mvc-009f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0162.jpg]]
  
'''Step 3: '''Put the cap on the performer's head and mark the edges of his desired hairline with chalk.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0163.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build2Mvc-021f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0164.jpg]]
  
'''Step 4:''' Add a full inch to this measurement to allow for "shrink" and cut the excess off the cap.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0165.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build2Cap2.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0166.jpg]]
  
'''Step 5:''' Sew bias tape binding around all the edges of the cap, and sew two 3" pieces of Rigeline boning as shown in the diagram to the inside temples of the cap to hold down the "sideburn" area, and two 4" pieces to the back corners to hold in the back points.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0167.jpg]]
  
[[File:254images254photos6Ridgelinelines.gif]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0168.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build1Mvc-001f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0169.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build1Mvc-002f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0170.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build1Mvc-006f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0171.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build3Mvc-013f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0172.jpg]]
  
'''Step 6:''' Starting from the bottom, sew lines of hair in layers onto the cap fairly sparsely. Putting on too much hair will give you the "footman wig" look. The direction you intend to curl and dress the hair will determine where you want to put the lines. However it is a good policy to sew in rows going across the back in ascending rows going up (with the hair pointing down), and then to put a long neat row all along the front hairline, as in the diagram below.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0173.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build3Mvc-008f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0174.jpg]]
  
[[File:Images254finals2002Mvc-025f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0175.jpg]]
  
[[File:254images254photos6Wigsewinglines.gif]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0176.jpg]]
  
[[File:Images254finals2002Mvc-026f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0177.jpg]]
  
'''Step 7:''' Brush, curl and pin the wig. Fit on performer. Adjust as seems advisable.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0178.jpg]]
  
'''Step 8:''' Sew in a casing, or series of thread loops to hold in the internal elastic adjustment band (see all pictures below). Sew in comb to forehead area.
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0179.jpg]]
  
[[File:254images254photos6Elasticbandplacement.gif]] Band placement
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0180.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build7Mvc-020f.jpg]]
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[[File:MantuaMantuaPict0181.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build7Mvc-021f.jpg]]with a casing
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[[File:Makeup2006SelfmoresoPict0038.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build7Mvc-022f.jpg]] with a series of thread loops.
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[[File:Makeup2006SelfmoresoPict0039.jpg]]
  
'''Step 9:''' Fit again to check on final form. Use hair spray, gel, or setting solution to fix final shape. Sew the hair net over the shape (for stage), or use the net to hold the shape when the performer is not wearing it (for film or reenactment).
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[[File:Makeup2006SelfmoresoPict0040.jpg]]
  
'''Step 10: '''Attach a ribbon or wig bag.
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[[File:Makeup2006SelfmoresoPict0041.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build7Mvc-019f.jpg]]
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[[File:Makeup2006SelfmoresoPict0042.jpg]]
  
[[File:Build7Mvc-026f.jpg]] a wig bag made with a hair bow clip to attach it.
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[[File:Makeup2006SelfmoresoPict0043.jpg]]
  
[[File:AccessoriesWigsBagwig2d.gif]] 1760's bag wig and bag details from Diderot.
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[[File:Makeup2006SelfmoresoPict0044.jpg]]
  
When it is finished, photograph the wig from a few angles as jpeg files and post them to your File folder at the class
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[[File:Mantua3Pict0009.jpg]]
  
[http://groups.yahoo.com/group/thr254/|eGroup]. Post a message to the group letting everyone know you have posted the pictures so you can get feedback.
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[[File:Mantua3Pict0010.jpg]]
  
Return to
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[[File:Mantua3Pict0011.jpg]]
  
[[Classes254pagesThr254online| Class Index]]
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[[File:Mantua3Pict0012.jpg]]
  
Return to
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[[File:Mantua3Pict0013.jpg]]
  
[[Classes254pagesThr254projects|Projects List]]
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[[File:Mantua3Pict0014.jpg]]
  
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[http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0823954269/thecostumersmani|A Day in the Life of a Colonial Wigmaker (The Library of Living and Working in Colonial Times)]
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Revision as of 00:57, 23 January 2014

The Costumer's Manifesto: Bridal Lengha into a Court Mantua The Mantua ProjectThis project is not yet complete. At present I have only photos showing some of the steps I am taking to take an East Indian Salwar (long tunic), Bridal Lengha (skirt), matching Salwar and Dupatta (scarf), and re-cut and sew them into a c.1710 English style court Mantua.

The Original garments before alterations:

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MantuaMantuaPict0064.jpgThe corsage embroidery on the extra salwar is cut out and made into a stomacher:

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MantuaMantuaPict0115.jpg Buckram is cut to stiffen the inside of the stomacher:

MantuaMantuaPict0116.jpg The shoulder pieces are removed and saved:

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MantuaMantuaPict0118.jpg Lining fabric is cut to enclose the buckram.

MantuaMantuaPict0119.jpg The lining and embroidery are sewn together into a pocket into which the buckram is sewn.

MantuaMantuaPict0120.jpgThe shoulder leftovers are stuck together to make a useable piece:

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The needed undergarments are put on the form in preparation for draping the mantua:

MantuaMantuaPict0121.jpgThe stays have been covered with a silk that closely matches the dress, so that if the shoulder straps shift during wear, the stays will appear to be part of the neckline of the finished dress.

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The stomacher is pinned to the stays.

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The lengha is put over the hoop to figure out what changes will need to be made to the skirt.

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The section where the shot silk is set in on a different grain becomes very obvious when put over a hoop, so plans are made to shift this section partly towards the back when the waistline is re-designed.

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The center back seam with the mismatched embroidery will be re-assembled to match better, and shifted to become a side-seam.

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Matching red cotton, taken from the lining of one of the salwars is draped around the form, cut, and sewn to make a simple inner bodice to which the draping of the mantua can be sewn.

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The bridal salwar sleeves are twiddled with to see how best to turn them into an 18th Century style:

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The bridal salwar is disassembled.

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The sleeves of the other salwar are disassembled:

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The salwar fronts are draped and cut to form the side front of the bodice continuing down into the side front of the skirt

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"The Costumer's Manifesto"
by Tara Maginnis