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Ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome '''Week #2
+
Byzantium and Early Medieval Europe'''Step 1:'''
  
Ancient Egypt, Greece and RomeStep 1:'''
+
Read the Byzantium and Early Medieval Europe lecture below and click on any links that interest you. You are not required to read all the material on all the links, however:  
  
Read the online "lecture" on dress in the Ancient world below and click on any links that interest you. You are not required to read all the material on all the links, however:
+
Dress in Byzantium (400-1460ce)
  
Dress in the
+
Dress in the Eastern Empire, later to be called
  
==Ancient World==
+
[[100pagesTimelinepagesByzantium1|Byzantium]] by the West, (although properly called Romania at the time) was directly taken from the later Roman Empire. Strictly speaking Byzantium/Romania 'was' the late Roman Empire, although it's capitol was Constantinople, and it's religion predominantly Christian. The Eastern Empire continued in the Roman tradition until it was shrunk into the space of little more than Constantinople and the southern tip of Greece by successive wars with the Ottoman Turks and Western Christian countries. In 1460 the last vestige of the Eastern Empire was swallowed up into the Ottoman Empire. For more on this topic see  and
  
Ancient World
+
Late Roman and "Byzantine" dress is more body covering than earlier Roman costume, usually including long sleeves and long hems.This is generally assumed to be a reaction to the growing Christian view that the body was not beautiful, but a pit of vice. When the tunica is shorter (only on men) the lower limbs are encased in trousers, a "barbarian" invention first adopted by the Roman army and lower classes, and eventually (after some aristocratic resistance) by all men. The toga remained for emperors and other high officials in this period, but in vestigial form as a long thin (about 6") strip wrapped round the torso in the traditional manner (see above).
  
Dress in most cultures, ancient and modern, may be divided into two main types of construction. One form, probably invented first, is that of pieced hides sewn together, often with great complexity, to fit the human body. The other, an outgrowth of textile production, uses textiles (woven, felted or knit) left as they are, or sewn into geometrical shapes, and draped around the body. Few cultures use only one of these methods exclusively, however, most cultures of which we have records prior to about 1300 had dress that was strongly inclined towards one method of clothing production or another. In the ancient world of the Mediterranean Basin, the dominant cultures (the latter two of which eventually gave rise to the "Western" civilization in which we presently live) wore clothing in the draped textile style.
+
Long half circle capes were part of male court dress, worn in place of the old toga over the new long sleeved tunica. The most notable feature of the Eastern Empire's dress is it's surface decoration. Unlike the earlier period which left fabric largely undecorated, the people of the Byzantine/Romanian Empire used all manner of woven, embroidered and beaded surface embellishment, particularly on Church vestments and court dress. This style of decoration, and many of the garment shapes, survive to this day in the priestly vestments of Orthodox churches in Greece, Eastern Europe and
  
'''Go on to
+
Dress in Early Medieval Europe (400-1200ce)
  
[[ClassesFashiondressAncientegypt|Ancient Egypt]]'''
+
Contemporary with the first part of the Eastern Empire's rule in the western Mediterranean, Western Europe was going through the period known as the "
 +
 
 +
[[100pagesTimelinepagesBarbeurope1|Dark Ages]]". One rather pithy scholar pretty well summed up the era (400-900ce) as "five hundred years of camping out". Warfare was pretty constant, commerce pretty nearly dead, and stable social and educational institutions almost non-existent.
 +
 
 +
[[File:HistoryQuicheratSeigneurfrane.jpg]]''Frankish Nobleman, after the bible of St. Martin of Tours in the Bibliotheque Nationale. (
 +
 
 +
[[History100pagesPicturecredits#Quicherat|Quicherat]]''
 +
 
 +
Few records survive of dress in this period, although there is some rather spectacular jewelry in the style commonly called  which has mainly been found in archeological sites in the British Isles and the Nordic countries. Like the Eastern Empire the dress of Western Europe seems to have consisted of the long sleeved tunic, half circle capes, & trousers. Western men are more often depicted in the short tunic and trouser combination than in long tunics.  and boots were also worn in place of sandals.
 +
 
 +
It has been suggested that the reason that clothing became longer, heavier and more fitted in this era is that the world weather pattern shifted at that time to make Europe the much colder continent it is now. (In Roman times the weather was so warm in Northern Europe that they had successful vineyards in England, far north of where it is possible to grow them now).
 +
 
 +
Another clothing variation popular in Europe was the wearing of a short tunic over a longer fuller one. This was done by persons of both sexes. The over tunic was often heavily embroidered in a manner similar to the Byzantine style.
 +
 
 +
Women's dress was often similar to the style mentioned above, or simply consisted of a long tunic with a more tight fitting sleeved one beneath. Married women, with the exception of queens, generally veiled their hair, but this was not a hard and fast rule.
 +
 
 +
In 800ce Charles the Great (aka Charlemagne) was crowned "Holy Roman Emperor" by the Pope in Rome, thus setting up a smaller, rival empire in the West to Romania/Byzantium. In this period (known now as
 +
 
 +
[[100pagesTimelinepagesCarolingian1|Carolinian]]) the shape of the old tunic changed by widening at the bottom. Eventually the lower part of the garment (now more often referred to as a gown) was cut like a full skirt.
 +
 
 +
By the
 +
 
 +
[[100pagesTimelinepages1000to1200euro1|1000-1200 ce period]] known as "Early Gothic" (another name intended as a pejorative provided by people at a much later date) the usual cut of the gown (and shorter over tunics) was pretty usually with the wide or circular bottom. Sleeves on the over gowns and/or tunics get wider (especially on women's dress) and there is an overall fashion for conspicuous consumption of fabric.
 +
 
 +
There had been a pretty popular belief in Western Europe in the years leading up to the first Millennium, that the Christian Second Coming, End of the World, and Judgment Day would happen in the year 1000. This did not really encourage people to build earthly cities for the future or spend time or cash on worldly matters. So material culture, including dress, was pretty limited in it's ostentation before this date. When the world did not end, people in the centuries that followed became more sanguine that The End was 'not' Near, and began displaying more interest in frivolous worldly matters such as dressing better than one's neighbors. This is partly why conspicuous consumption of fine fabric suddenly became popular.
 +
 
 +
Fabric production also became much easier in this era through the invention of two labor-saving devices: The
 +
 
 +
[http://kws.atlantia.sca.org/spinning.html|spinning wheel] and the horizontal loom which increased both fabric quality and production nearly tenfold.
 +
 
 +
[http://moas.atlantia.sca.org/topics/text.htm|Textiles and Weaving Links (Medieval)]
 +
 
 +
[http://www.faculty.de.gcsu.edu/~dvess/ids/fap/weav.html|The Art and History of Weaving]
 +
 
 +
When the Pope encouraged the various warring Christian kings of Western Europe to go to the Holy Land to fight the rising kingdoms of Islam, the "Crusaders" had a chance to see civilized people (the Byzantines and Moslems) some of whom dressed in silks'' daily''. Europeans instantly coveted these things to such a degree that they happily sacked and pillaged from the Byzantines (who were in theory the allies they had been sent to help) as much as from the Saracens and Turks.
 +
 
 +
By the 12th-
 +
 
 +
[[100pagesTimelinepages13thcent1|13th Centuries]] they had pillaged the technology from the East to make velvet, and Western clothing became more extravagant with each generation.
 +
 
 +
[http://home.earthlink.net/~lilinah/courtyard.html|The Inner Courtyard of Dar Anahita (Medieval Muslim Costuming)]
 +
 
 +
[http://www.geocities.com/kaganate/clothing.html|The Red Kaganate - Central Asian Nomad Clothing of the Middle Ages] (Includes patterns)
 +
 
 +
'''Step 2:'''During this period, the Prophet Mohammed founded the religion of Islam. Go to
 +
 
 +
[[History100pagesReligious_costume|Tara's Religious Costume Links Page]], and find out what the Prophet and other scholars have said about suitable dress. See online catalogs of modern Islamic clothing. In what ways are these garments similar/different to the images of Early Medieval Western dress you see above on this page? What would be the advantages and disadvantages of wearing one of the many types of modern Islamic dress compared to what you wear now? Post your reflections on the
 +
 
 +
[http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CostumeHistoryClass|Message Board]and read messages that others have posted, and start some discussion!
 +
 
 +
'''NO! THIS IS NOT THE END!
 +
 
 +
[[ClassesFashiondressLatemedieval|CLICK HERE TO GO ONTO PAGE 2 ]]OF THIS WEEK'S LESSON!'''
  
 
''
 
''
  
[[File:EthnicAztechphotocubeFtmcphersoneskimos2.jpg]] Dress made of complexly pieced hides, worn by modern Inuit women of Ft.McPherson Canada (Aztech New Media)''
+
[[File:HistoryRoman1882ancientromechrist.jpg]] Byzantine costumes from Kretchmer''
  
[[File:EthnicAztechphotocubeEgyptmusicians.jpg]]'' Modern Egyptian musicians wearing a style of fabric-based dress, based on sewn-together rectangles(Aztech New Media)''
+
[[File:HistoryQuicheratDiptyqued'anastaseencostume.jpg]]''Emperor Anastase (?) in consular dress, a late toga from
 +
 
 +
==Quicherat==
 +
 
 +
Paris, 1875''
 +
 
 +
[[File:HistoryQuicheratJustinien.jpg|Jules Quicherat, Histoire du costume enFrance]]'' The Emperor Justinian and his court and clergy, c.510 (
 +
 
 +
[[History100pagesPicturecredits#Quicherat|Quicherat]]''
 +
 
 +
[[File:HistoryQuicheratL'imperatricetheodora.jpg]]'' The Empress Theodora, wife of Justinian, and her suite, c. 510 (
 +
 
 +
[[History100pagesPicturecredits#Quicherat|Quicherat]]''
 +
 
 +
[[File:RacinetNewByzantine181.jpg]]''Byzantine court and ecclesiastical dress from
 +
 
 +
[[BooksRacinetRacinet1|Racinet]]''
 +
 
 +
Click here for more
 +
 
 +
[[History100pagesByzantinelinks|Byzantine Links]]
 +
 
 +
Click here for more Timeline
 +
 
 +
[[100pagesTimelinepagesByzantium1|Byzantine Images]]
 +
 
 +
[[File:HistoryQuicheratRoidudixieme.jpg]]''King of the 10th Century (
 +
 
 +
[[History100pagesPicturecredits#Quicherat|Quicherat]]''
 +
 
 +
[[File:HistoryQuicheratSaintehelene.jpg]]''Saint Helene, dressed as a princess of the 6th Century. Ladies of the (?) era.(
 +
 
 +
[[History100pagesPicturecredits#Quicherat|Quicherat]]''
 +
 
 +
''
 +
 
 +
[[History100pagesBarbeurolinks|More Dark Ages Costume Links]]''
 +
 
 +
''
 +
 
 +
[[100pagesTimelinepagesBarbeurope1|More Dark Ages Costume Timeline Images]]''
 +
 
 +
[[File:HistoryQuicheratGrandedame.jpg]]'' Great lady of the (?). Irmentrude, wife of King Charles le Chauve. (
 +
 
 +
[[History100pagesPicturecredits#Quicherat|Quicherat]]''
 +
 
 +
''
 +
 
 +
[[100pagesTimelinepagesCarolingian1|Timeline Images on the Carolinian Period]]''
 +
 
 +
[[File:HistoryQuicheratBliauddutresor.jpg]]
 +
 
 +
[[File:HistoryQuicheratChainsedutresor.jpg]]'' Robes of the Holy Roman Emperor, 11th Century (
 +
 
 +
[[History100pagesPicturecredits#Quicherat|Quicherat]]''
 +
 
 +
[[File:HistoryStibbert28.jpg]]'' 12th Century French Ladies Dress from
 +
 
 +
[[History100pagesPicturecredits#Stibbert|Frederick Stibbert]]''
 +
 
 +
[[History100pagesPicturecredits#Stibbert|AbitiE Fogge Civile E Militari Dal I Al XVII Secolo]] 1914.
 +
 
 +
[[File:HistoryRacinetRacinet9_13tharmor.jpg]]
 +
 
 +
[[File:HistoryRacinetMidage5.jpg]]''9th-13th Century European armor from
 +
 
 +
[[BooksRacinetRacinet1|Racinet]]''
 +
 
 +
'''Click here for more
 +
 
 +
[[History100pagesMedievalinks|Medieval Costume Links]]'''
 +
 
 +
''
 +
 
 +
[[File:EthnicAztechphotocubeEgyptwoman.jpg]] Egyptian woman in modern Islamic dress (
 +
 
 +
[[History100pagesPicturecredits#Aztech|Aztech Media)]]''
 +
 
 +
''
 +
 
 +
[[File:EthnicAztechphotocubeSamarkand.jpg]] An elderly gentleman of Samarkand wearing traditional Islamic dress of that region. (
 +
 
 +
[[History100pagesPicturecredits#Aztech|Aztech Media)]]''
  
 
==Product Links==
 
==Product Links==
  
[[File:AmazonBooksWomensworkthefirst20000years.gif|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0393313484/thecostumersmani| Women's Work : The First 20,000 Years : Women, Cloth, and Society in Early Times]]  Women's Work : The First 20,000 Years : Women, Cloth, and Society in Early Times
+
[http://wwwtc.nhmccd.cc.tx.us/people/crf01/romaion/|What, If Anything, Is A Byzantine?]
 +
 
 +
[http://www.romanity.org/index.htm|THE ROMANS Ancient, Medieval and Modern]
 +
 
 +
[http://www.romanity.org/index.htm]
 +
 
 +
[http://sunsite.unc.edu/sergei/Exs/His/His.html|Russia]
 +
 
 +
[http://www.celticlady.com/|Celtic]
 +
 
 +
[http://www.nativearth.net/|Shoes]
 +
 
 +
[[File:AmazonBooksAncienteuropeancostume.jpg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0486407233/thecostumersmani| Ancient European Costume and Fashion]]  Ancient European Costume and Fashion

Revision as of 01:01, 23 January 2014

Byzantium and Early Medieval EuropeStep 1:

Read the Byzantium and Early Medieval Europe lecture below and click on any links that interest you. You are not required to read all the material on all the links, however:

Dress in Byzantium (400-1460ce)

Dress in the Eastern Empire, later to be called

Byzantium by the West, (although properly called Romania at the time) was directly taken from the later Roman Empire. Strictly speaking Byzantium/Romania 'was' the late Roman Empire, although it's capitol was Constantinople, and it's religion predominantly Christian. The Eastern Empire continued in the Roman tradition until it was shrunk into the space of little more than Constantinople and the southern tip of Greece by successive wars with the Ottoman Turks and Western Christian countries. In 1460 the last vestige of the Eastern Empire was swallowed up into the Ottoman Empire. For more on this topic see and

Late Roman and "Byzantine" dress is more body covering than earlier Roman costume, usually including long sleeves and long hems.This is generally assumed to be a reaction to the growing Christian view that the body was not beautiful, but a pit of vice. When the tunica is shorter (only on men) the lower limbs are encased in trousers, a "barbarian" invention first adopted by the Roman army and lower classes, and eventually (after some aristocratic resistance) by all men. The toga remained for emperors and other high officials in this period, but in vestigial form as a long thin (about 6") strip wrapped round the torso in the traditional manner (see above).

Long half circle capes were part of male court dress, worn in place of the old toga over the new long sleeved tunica. The most notable feature of the Eastern Empire's dress is it's surface decoration. Unlike the earlier period which left fabric largely undecorated, the people of the Byzantine/Romanian Empire used all manner of woven, embroidered and beaded surface embellishment, particularly on Church vestments and court dress. This style of decoration, and many of the garment shapes, survive to this day in the priestly vestments of Orthodox churches in Greece, Eastern Europe and

Dress in Early Medieval Europe (400-1200ce)

Contemporary with the first part of the Eastern Empire's rule in the western Mediterranean, Western Europe was going through the period known as the "

Dark Ages". One rather pithy scholar pretty well summed up the era (400-900ce) as "five hundred years of camping out". Warfare was pretty constant, commerce pretty nearly dead, and stable social and educational institutions almost non-existent.

HistoryQuicheratSeigneurfrane.jpgFrankish Nobleman, after the bible of St. Martin of Tours in the Bibliotheque Nationale. (

Quicherat

Few records survive of dress in this period, although there is some rather spectacular jewelry in the style commonly called which has mainly been found in archeological sites in the British Isles and the Nordic countries. Like the Eastern Empire the dress of Western Europe seems to have consisted of the long sleeved tunic, half circle capes, & trousers. Western men are more often depicted in the short tunic and trouser combination than in long tunics. and boots were also worn in place of sandals.

It has been suggested that the reason that clothing became longer, heavier and more fitted in this era is that the world weather pattern shifted at that time to make Europe the much colder continent it is now. (In Roman times the weather was so warm in Northern Europe that they had successful vineyards in England, far north of where it is possible to grow them now).

Another clothing variation popular in Europe was the wearing of a short tunic over a longer fuller one. This was done by persons of both sexes. The over tunic was often heavily embroidered in a manner similar to the Byzantine style.

Women's dress was often similar to the style mentioned above, or simply consisted of a long tunic with a more tight fitting sleeved one beneath. Married women, with the exception of queens, generally veiled their hair, but this was not a hard and fast rule.

In 800ce Charles the Great (aka Charlemagne) was crowned "Holy Roman Emperor" by the Pope in Rome, thus setting up a smaller, rival empire in the West to Romania/Byzantium. In this period (known now as

Carolinian) the shape of the old tunic changed by widening at the bottom. Eventually the lower part of the garment (now more often referred to as a gown) was cut like a full skirt.

By the

1000-1200 ce period known as "Early Gothic" (another name intended as a pejorative provided by people at a much later date) the usual cut of the gown (and shorter over tunics) was pretty usually with the wide or circular bottom. Sleeves on the over gowns and/or tunics get wider (especially on women's dress) and there is an overall fashion for conspicuous consumption of fabric.

There had been a pretty popular belief in Western Europe in the years leading up to the first Millennium, that the Christian Second Coming, End of the World, and Judgment Day would happen in the year 1000. This did not really encourage people to build earthly cities for the future or spend time or cash on worldly matters. So material culture, including dress, was pretty limited in it's ostentation before this date. When the world did not end, people in the centuries that followed became more sanguine that The End was 'not' Near, and began displaying more interest in frivolous worldly matters such as dressing better than one's neighbors. This is partly why conspicuous consumption of fine fabric suddenly became popular.

Fabric production also became much easier in this era through the invention of two labor-saving devices: The

wheel and the horizontal loom which increased both fabric quality and production nearly tenfold.

and Weaving Links (Medieval)

Art and History of Weaving

When the Pope encouraged the various warring Christian kings of Western Europe to go to the Holy Land to fight the rising kingdoms of Islam, the "Crusaders" had a chance to see civilized people (the Byzantines and Moslems) some of whom dressed in silks daily. Europeans instantly coveted these things to such a degree that they happily sacked and pillaged from the Byzantines (who were in theory the allies they had been sent to help) as much as from the Saracens and Turks.

By the 12th-

13th Centuries they had pillaged the technology from the East to make velvet, and Western clothing became more extravagant with each generation.

Inner Courtyard of Dar Anahita (Medieval Muslim Costuming)

Red Kaganate - Central Asian Nomad Clothing of the Middle Ages (Includes patterns)

Step 2:During this period, the Prophet Mohammed founded the religion of Islam. Go to

Tara's Religious Costume Links Page, and find out what the Prophet and other scholars have said about suitable dress. See online catalogs of modern Islamic clothing. In what ways are these garments similar/different to the images of Early Medieval Western dress you see above on this page? What would be the advantages and disadvantages of wearing one of the many types of modern Islamic dress compared to what you wear now? Post your reflections on the

Boardand read messages that others have posted, and start some discussion!

NO! THIS IS NOT THE END!

CLICK HERE TO GO ONTO PAGE 2 OF THIS WEEK'S LESSON!

HistoryRoman1882ancientromechrist.jpg Byzantine costumes from Kretchmer

HistoryQuicheratDiptyqued'anastaseencostume.jpgEmperor Anastase (?) in consular dress, a late toga from

Quicherat

Paris, 1875

Jules Quicherat, Histoire du costume enFrance The Emperor Justinian and his court and clergy, c.510 (

Quicherat

HistoryQuicheratL'imperatricetheodora.jpg The Empress Theodora, wife of Justinian, and her suite, c. 510 (

Quicherat

RacinetNewByzantine181.jpgByzantine court and ecclesiastical dress from

Racinet

Click here for more

Byzantine Links

Click here for more Timeline

Byzantine Images

HistoryQuicheratRoidudixieme.jpgKing of the 10th Century (

Quicherat

HistoryQuicheratSaintehelene.jpgSaint Helene, dressed as a princess of the 6th Century. Ladies of the (?) era.(

Quicherat

More Dark Ages Costume Links

More Dark Ages Costume Timeline Images

HistoryQuicheratGrandedame.jpg Great lady of the (?). Irmentrude, wife of King Charles le Chauve. (

Quicherat

Timeline Images on the Carolinian Period

HistoryQuicheratBliauddutresor.jpg

HistoryQuicheratChainsedutresor.jpg Robes of the Holy Roman Emperor, 11th Century (

Quicherat

HistoryStibbert28.jpg 12th Century French Ladies Dress from

Frederick Stibbert

AbitiE Fogge Civile E Militari Dal I Al XVII Secolo 1914.

HistoryRacinetRacinet9 13tharmor.jpg

HistoryRacinetMidage5.jpg9th-13th Century European armor from

Racinet

Click here for more

Medieval Costume Links

EthnicAztechphotocubeEgyptwoman.jpg Egyptian woman in modern Islamic dress (

Aztech Media)

EthnicAztechphotocubeSamarkand.jpg An elderly gentleman of Samarkand wearing traditional Islamic dress of that region. (

Aztech Media)

Product Links

If Anything, Is A Byzantine?

ROMANS Ancient, Medieval and Modern

[1]

[2]

[3]

[4]

Ancient European Costume and Fashion Ancient European Costume and Fashion

This Page is part of The Costumer's Manifesto, originally founded by Tara Maginnis, Ph.D. from 1996-2014, now flying free as a wiki for all to edit and contribute. Site maintained, hosted, and wikified by Andrew Kahn. Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike License; additional terms may apply. See Terms of Use for details. You may print out any of these pages for non-profit educational use such as school papers, teacher handouts, or wall displays. You may link to any page in this site.