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Berlin Cabaret Sleaze Project at The Costumer's Manifesto Costume Design & Construction '''Berlin Cabaret Sleaze'''
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Cape Project at The Costumer's Manifesto Costume Design & Construction '''Cape Project 5D+20C'''
  
'''5 Design, 10 Construction Credits'''
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[[File:Thr2542000finals1Mvc-014f.jpg]]
  
[[File:PortfolioStudiocostumeshots3podress14.jpg]]
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[[File:Thr254Disk2Mvc-008f.jpg]]
  
What you will need:
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[[File:Thr2542000finals2Mvc-027f.jpg]]
  
Mostly nylon bra and panties to fit performer
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This is a good project to choose if you have a little sewing experience and want a larger sewing project to develop these skills further. It can also be used by an advanced sewer to learn new skills of basic pattern drafting. Most people (especially theatre folks) secretly long for a cape, so this has the advantage of being a project you can use when you are done. Commercial cape patterns also include most of the needed instructional materials you need to learn as you sew. The disadvantage is that long full capes take up lots of fabric, so they aren't cheap to make.
  
Old lace tights or nylons, any size
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[[File:Photos6Dress055.jpg]]
  
6 yards of 3/4" elastic in white.
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[[File:Photos6Dress056.jpg]]
 
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Paintable or dyeable heeled shoes
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Either a nylon nightgown/negligee with a sheer overlay OR a beaded/sequined chiffon dress with lining, OR 3-4 yards of translucent nylon lace.
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3 garish colors of dye (Rit or Dylon are OK) that clash well together.
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Any extra bits of beading, feathers, fringe, tacky jewelry, etc that is handy.
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A close fitting hat or headband.
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If at all possible, a garter belt.
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Flesh colored tights or unitard if performer is modest.
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Sewing Machine and dyepot.
+
  
 
[[File:h.t]]
 
[[File:h.t]]
  
Background:  
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[[File:AmazonBooksInstantperiodcostumes.jpg]]
  
[[File:ThreepennyKadesphotosPrint2.jpg]] The whores in
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'''Step 1:'''
  
[[Shows100pagesThreepen|The Threepenny Opera]] at UAF were all done similarly to the Kit Cat Girls I did for
+
Choose a commercial cape pattern or, if you already have a good deal of sewing experience, you may draft one from the instructions at these sites:
  
[[Shows100pagesCabaret|Cabaret,]] a few years earlier, but taken a step or so further. While the Kit Kat Girls wore sleeveless flesh toned unitards under their tatty lingerie, most of the actresses in 3PO opted out of this extra security. However even with full unitards from the torso down, the smoke and mirrors that this style provides made the Kit Kat's shown here:
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[http://amtgard.com:8080/how2clok.pdf|How To Make a Quick and Easy Cloak]
  
[[File:PortfolioHiresnewCabaret5.jpg]]
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[http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wittie/sca/garb.html|Garb Pictures and Patterns]
  
[[File:CabaretPhotosTelephone3.jpg]] look spectacularly naughty. Because the eye looks through the lace, and sees visible underwear, we tend to assume anything flesh colored next to that underwear is, in fact flesh. So an actress in a see through wedding dress like this
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[http://armag.free.fr/Costumes/Costumes.htm|Les Costumes]
  
[[File:ShowsThreepennyThrepen35.jpg]]
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[http://armag.free.fr/Costumes/mantcirc.htm|Circular Cloak]
  
[[File:ThreepennyPhotos25560_25.jpg]] is automatically presumed to be showing her thighs peeking above the stockings, not the flesh toned tights that are what is really there:
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[http://armag.free.fr/Costumes/mantrect.htm|The Rectangular cloak]
  
[[File:ThreepennyPhotos25560_26.jpg]]
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[http://armag.free.fr/Costumes/mantfitt.htm|The Fitted Cloak]
  
[[File:PortfolioStudiocostumeshots3podress7.jpg]] A design like this that includes translucent bits, and visible underwear thus tends to suggest to the audience's mind that they are very close to being "flashed"  
+
If you are using a commercial cape pattern, be careful to read the pattern envelope for suggestions about '''choosing the correct cape fabric'''. It is not generally a good idea to use stretch knits to make capes. If you must choose a stretch fabric, do not line the cape with a non-stretch fabric like satin. Indeed if the fabric is very stretchy, do not line the cape at all. If possible, choose a fabric that is washable (ask fabric store employees-most fabrics are really washable, but will say "dry clean only" anyway on the label. Real dry-clean-only fabrics include wool suiting, flocked fabrics, and moiré aka "watermarked" fabrics), most others are actually washable, and you can figure this out by cutting out a 6"x6" swatch of your material and washing it to be sure before you wash the rest.
  
[[File:ShowsThreepennyThrepen1.jpg]] when in fact, they are seeing very little. Here a beaded dress has it's solid lining cut away, so there are sections that are translucent.
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'''Step 2:'''
  
[[File:ThreepennyPhotosDearmadam.jpg]]
+
Choose and acquire fabric, (optional) lining, and notions such as thread, clasps, trim, etc. for your cape, if the fabric is washable, get a little extra to allow for shrinking. Pre wash your fabric, trims and lining. If the fabric is dry clean only, take it to the drycleaner and pre-dry clean it instead, (except for moiré/watermarked fabric which you should even avoid dry cleaning). Trim should get pre washed in the sink, not thrown in a washer or it may tear or tangle. For more info you can read
  
[[File:ThreepennyPhotosSolomon.jpg]]
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'''Step 3:'''
  
[[File:ShowsThreepennyThrepen10.jpg]]Please note, what you think you see in the following photo, you aren't seeing.  
+
It is very important to '''RTFM''' (Read The Frigging Manual) when learning sewing. '' Read all the pattern instructions through once'' and then, cut the fabric out in the pattern as per the instructions.Tips on
  
[[File:ThreepennyPhotosJennydres.jpg]] What you ARE seeing is a flesh toned bra with nipple colored dots sewn to the cups. The reason it is believable is the fringe at the center and sides hide the hardware of the bra, and the "breasts" take on a vague quality by being seen through the floaty fabric. This allows a performer to shock while being comfortably supported, and technically, not naked. Here is the dress seen above made from a translucent nightgown.
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'''Step 4:'''
  
[[File:Images254finals20021014.jpg]]
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Begin pinning together cape pieces and sewing them as per your instructions. If you have chosen nylon, rayon or silk velvet as your cape fabric baste all seams by hand before sewing on the machine, this will save your sanity and your fabric. After sewing ANY seam, press the seam open with a steam iron, before sewing the next step. (Don't press velvet or you will crush it). This will make the finished product look much better, and make the sewing easier.
  
[[File:Images254finals20021015.jpg]] If you don't have a translucent night dress to sacrifice, you can pull the liner out of a beaded gown like this:
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''
  
[[File:ThreepennyPhotosDearmadam.jpg]] or if you can't find a beaded gown cheap at a local thrift shop, you can build a variety of very simple sheath dresses like these below out of cheap lace. The patterns of many of of these are very simple, and shown in the little diagrams below each image.
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[[File:Photos6Dress025.jpg]] a student sews his cape project in 2002''
  
[[File:AmazonBooksWomenswearofthe1920s.jpg]]
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'''Step 5:'''
  
[[File:AmazonBooks1920sfashionsfrombaltmans.jpg]]
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As you encounter problems, post questions to the
  
[[File:Images254finals20021016.jpg]]
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[http://groups.yahoo.com/group/thr254|Class Message Board], or if it works better for you, post pictures to the
  
[[File:Images254finals20021017.jpg]]
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[http://groups.yahoo.com/group/thr254/files/|files section ] to illustrate your points.
  
[[File:Images254finals20021018.jpg]]
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'''Step 6:'''
  
[[File:254images8Cabaret1.jpg]]
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Continue to pin together cape pieces and sew them as per your instructions. Remember that after sewing ANY seam, you should press the seam open with a steam iron, before sewing the next step.
  
[[File:PortfolioStudiocostumeshots3podress10.jpg]]
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'''Step 7:'''
  
[[File:PortfolioStudiocostumeshots3podress11.jpg]]
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Add trim and closures to the cape as per the instructions.
  
[[File:254images8Cabaret2.jpg]]
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'''Step 8:'''
  
[[File:254images8Cabaret3.jpg]]
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When you have completed your cape to your satisfaction, photograph it as jpeg files and post them to your File folder at the class
  
[[File:PortfolioStudiocostumeshots3podress12.jpg]]
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[http://groups.yahoo.com/group/thr254/|eGroup]. Post a message to the group letting everyone know you have posted these pictures so you can get feedback.
  
[[File:PortfolioStudiocostumeshots3podress13.jpg]]
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''
  
[[File:254images8Cabaret4.jpg]]
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[[File:Images254finals20021068.jpg]] the finished cape project, 2002.''
  
[[File:PortfolioStudiocostumeshots3podress8.jpg]]
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Return to
  
[[File:PortfolioStudiocostumeshots3podress9.jpg]]
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[[Classes254pagesThr254online| Class Index]]
  
[[File:PortfolioStudiocostumeshots3podress.jpg]] This dress is just a basic halter dress of lace
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Return to
  
[[File:Images254finals20021019.jpg]]
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[[Classes254pagesThr254projects|Projects List]]
 
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[[File:Images254finals20021021.jpg]]
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[[File:Images254finals20021022.jpg]]these are both just simple drape jobs done on 1930's lines.
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'''What To Do:'''
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If you have a beaded dress, cut away the lining, so the dress is translucent. If you have a negligee with a sheer overlay, cut away everything but the overlay and what is holding it together. If you have nylon lace, cut off a length of the lace equivalent to the width of the fabric, (to make a big square).
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Cut the lace hose or nylons off of the panties. With a Zig Zag stitch, sew elastic to the tops (while pulling gently on the elastic) to make self-garters.
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Take the rest of the elastic, cut it in half and put both pieces with the dress/negligee/large piece of lace. Dye these the "main" color and paint the shoes to match. Dye the smaller lace square, and bra and panties with the second color, and the stockings (and hopefully garter belt) the third. If you have a feather boa, trim or hat feathers you can also tone them to match by sticking them in one of the dye mixes as well.
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If you have lace to make a dress, cut the main body of lace into a pullover sheath like this,
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and quarter the smaller square into 4 squares like this,
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then insert the squares into the dress body like this, making the dress as long or short as your taste demands.
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Use any excess lace bits, trim or feathers to decorate the hat or headband.
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[[File:PortfolioStudiocostumeshots3pohat.jpg]]
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To dress the performer, have her/him put on the flesh tone tights/body suit if desired, then put on the bra, panties, stockings (and optional garter belt) over this. Chris-cross the two elastic pieces under the foot and up the leg to tie under the knee, over the stockings. Put on the matching shoes. Put on the translucent dress, hat, and any other accessories you may have. Look
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[[Shows100pages3pomakeup|here]] for makeup ideas.
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When you are finished, photograph the ensemble as jpeg files and post them to your File folder at the class
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[http://groups.yahoo.com/group/thr254/|eGroup]. Post a message to the group letting everyone know you have posted your pictures so you can get feedback.
+
 
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[[File:PhotoalbumTarapicsTaraasjenny2.jpg]]
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[[File:PhotoalbumTarapicsTaraasjenny1.jpg]] Two photos of Tara in the costume for Jenny Diver for
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[[Shows100pagesThreepen|Threepenny Opera ]](early 1920's Weimar style). Tara wore this as a hall costume at CCXV.
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Return to
+
 
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Return to
+
  
 
==Product Links==
 
==Product Links==
  
[[File:AmazonBooks6Thecostumebook.jpg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0764314858/thecostumersmani| The Costume Book: The Non-Professional's Guide to Professional Results]]  The Costume Book: The Non-Professional's Guide to Professional Results
+
[[File:AmazonBooksThemagicgarment.jpg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0881337625/thecostumersmani| The Magic Garment : Principles of Costume Design]]  The Magic Garment : Principles of Costume Design
  
[[File:AmazonBooksCompletebookofsewing.jpg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0789404192/thecostumersmani| Complete Book of Sewing]]  Complete Book of Sewing
+
[[File:AmazonBooks5Cuttinganddrapingspecial.jpg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0713483326/thecostumersmani| Cutting and Draping Special Occasion Clothes: Designs for Eveningwear and Partywear]]  Cutting and Draping Special Occasion Clothes: Designs for Eveningwear and Partywear
  
[[File:AmazonBooksThecostumedesignershandbook.jpg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0435086073/thecostumersmani| The Costume Designer's Handbook : A Complete Guide for Amateur and Professional Costume Designers]]  The Costume Designer's Handbook : A Complete Guide for Amateur and Professional Costume Designers
+
[[File:AmazonBooks5Thefoambook.jpg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0967857503/thecostumersmani| The Foam Book : An Easy Guide to Building Polyfoam Puppets]]  The Foam Book : An Easy Guide to Building Polyfoam Puppets
 
+
[[File:AmazonBooksThecostumetechnicianshandbook.jpg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0435086103/thecostumersmani| The Costume Technician's Handbook : A Complete Guide for Amateur and Professional Costume Technicians]]  The Costume Technician's Handbook : A Complete Guide for Amateur and Professional Costume Technicians
+
 
+
[http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0486412385/thecostumersmani]
+
 
+
[http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/155870406X/thecostumersmani|Stage Costume Step-By-Step : The Complete Guide to Designing and Making Stage Costumes for All Major Drama Periods and Genres]
+
 
+
[[File:AmazonBooksThemagicgarment.jpg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0881337625/thecostumersmani| The Magic Garment : Principles of Costume Design]]  The Magic Garment : Principles of Costume Design
+
  
 
[[File:AmazonBooksCostumeconstruction.jpg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1577660757/thecostumersmani| Costume Construction]]  Costume Construction
 
[[File:AmazonBooksCostumeconstruction.jpg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1577660757/thecostumersmani| Costume Construction]]  Costume Construction
  
[[File:AmazonBooks6Thecostumebook.jpg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0764314858/thecostumersmani| The Costume Book: The Non-Professional's Guide to Professional Results]]  The Costume Book: The Non-Professional's Guide to Professional Results
+
[[File:AmazonBooks4Costumes_chemistry%20.jpg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0896762149/thecostumersmani| Costumes and Chemistry: A Comprehensive Guide to Materials and Applications]]  Costumes and Chemistry: A Comprehensive Guide to Materials and Applications
 
+
[[File:AmazonBooks2Madelinevionnet.jpg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0811819973/thecostumersmani| Madeleine Vionnet]]  Madeleine Vionnet
+
 
+
[[File:AmazonBooks6Greatfasdesigns1920s.jpg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0486244822/thecostumersmani| Great Fashion Designs of the Twenties Paper Dolls in Full Color]]  Great Fashion Designs of the Twenties Paper Dolls in Full Color
+
 
+
[[File:AmazonBooks9Makinglatexclothes.jpeg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0896762513/thecostumersmani| Making Latex Clothes]]  Making Latex Clothes
+
  
[[File:AmazonBooks6Roaring20spaper.jpg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0486272834/thecostumersmani| Roaring Twenties Paper Dolls]]  Roaring Twenties Paper Dolls
+
[[File:AmazonBooks6Businesstheatredesign.jpg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1581152485/thecostumersmani| The Business of Theatrical Design]]  The Business of Theatrical Design
  
[http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0887346545/thecostumersmani| Women's Wear of the 1920's: With Complete Patterns]
+
[[File:AmazonBooksPeriodcostforstageandscreen1.gif|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0887346537/thecostumersmani| Period Costume for Stage & Screen : Patterns for Women's Dress, Medieval-1500]]  Period Costume for Stage & Screen : Patterns for Women's Dress, Medieval-1500
  
[http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0486402932/thecostumersmani| 1920S Fashions from B. Altman & Company]
+
[http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1566080703/thecostumersmani|Instant Period Costume : How to Make Classic Costumes from Cast-Off Clothing]
  
[[File:AmazonBooks2Fashionsofroaring20s.jpg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0764300172/thecostumersmani| Fashions of the Roaring '20s]] Fashions of the Roaring '20s
+
[http://www.ianr.unl.edu/pubs/textiles/g1028.htm|Preparing Fabric for Use; G91-1028]
  
[[File:AmazonBooks6Cubismandfashion.jpg|link=http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0870998889/thecostumersmani| Cubism and Fashion]] Cubism and Fashion
+
[http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00005.asp|Cutting Out]

Revision as of 23:58, 22 January 2014

Cape Project at The Costumer's Manifesto Costume Design & Construction Cape Project 5D+20C

Thr2542000finals1Mvc-014f.jpg

Thr254Disk2Mvc-008f.jpg

Thr2542000finals2Mvc-027f.jpg

This is a good project to choose if you have a little sewing experience and want a larger sewing project to develop these skills further. It can also be used by an advanced sewer to learn new skills of basic pattern drafting. Most people (especially theatre folks) secretly long for a cape, so this has the advantage of being a project you can use when you are done. Commercial cape patterns also include most of the needed instructional materials you need to learn as you sew. The disadvantage is that long full capes take up lots of fabric, so they aren't cheap to make.

Photos6Dress055.jpg

Photos6Dress056.jpg

File:H.t

AmazonBooksInstantperiodcostumes.jpg

Step 1:

Choose a commercial cape pattern or, if you already have a good deal of sewing experience, you may draft one from the instructions at these sites:

To Make a Quick and Easy Cloak

Pictures and Patterns

Costumes

Cloak

Rectangular cloak

Fitted Cloak

If you are using a commercial cape pattern, be careful to read the pattern envelope for suggestions about choosing the correct cape fabric. It is not generally a good idea to use stretch knits to make capes. If you must choose a stretch fabric, do not line the cape with a non-stretch fabric like satin. Indeed if the fabric is very stretchy, do not line the cape at all. If possible, choose a fabric that is washable (ask fabric store employees-most fabrics are really washable, but will say "dry clean only" anyway on the label. Real dry-clean-only fabrics include wool suiting, flocked fabrics, and moiré aka "watermarked" fabrics), most others are actually washable, and you can figure this out by cutting out a 6"x6" swatch of your material and washing it to be sure before you wash the rest.

Step 2:

Choose and acquire fabric, (optional) lining, and notions such as thread, clasps, trim, etc. for your cape, if the fabric is washable, get a little extra to allow for shrinking. Pre wash your fabric, trims and lining. If the fabric is dry clean only, take it to the drycleaner and pre-dry clean it instead, (except for moiré/watermarked fabric which you should even avoid dry cleaning). Trim should get pre washed in the sink, not thrown in a washer or it may tear or tangle. For more info you can read

Step 3:

It is very important to RTFM (Read The Frigging Manual) when learning sewing. Read all the pattern instructions through once and then, cut the fabric out in the pattern as per the instructions.Tips on

Step 4:

Begin pinning together cape pieces and sewing them as per your instructions. If you have chosen nylon, rayon or silk velvet as your cape fabric baste all seams by hand before sewing on the machine, this will save your sanity and your fabric. After sewing ANY seam, press the seam open with a steam iron, before sewing the next step. (Don't press velvet or you will crush it). This will make the finished product look much better, and make the sewing easier.

Photos6Dress025.jpg a student sews his cape project in 2002

Step 5:

As you encounter problems, post questions to the

Message Board, or if it works better for you, post pictures to the

section to illustrate your points.

Step 6:

Continue to pin together cape pieces and sew them as per your instructions. Remember that after sewing ANY seam, you should press the seam open with a steam iron, before sewing the next step.

Step 7:

Add trim and closures to the cape as per the instructions.

Step 8:

When you have completed your cape to your satisfaction, photograph it as jpeg files and post them to your File folder at the class

[1]. Post a message to the group letting everyone know you have posted these pictures so you can get feedback.

Images254finals20021068.jpg the finished cape project, 2002.

Return to

Class Index

Return to

Projects List

Product Links

The Magic Garment : Principles of Costume Design The Magic Garment : Principles of Costume Design

Cutting and Draping Special Occasion Clothes: Designs for Eveningwear and Partywear Cutting and Draping Special Occasion Clothes: Designs for Eveningwear and Partywear

The Foam Book : An Easy Guide to Building Polyfoam Puppets The Foam Book : An Easy Guide to Building Polyfoam Puppets

Costume Construction Costume Construction

Costumes and Chemistry: A Comprehensive Guide to Materials and Applications Costumes and Chemistry: A Comprehensive Guide to Materials and Applications

The Business of Theatrical Design The Business of Theatrical Design

Period Costume for Stage & Screen : Patterns for Women's Dress, Medieval-1500 Period Costume for Stage & Screen : Patterns for Women's Dress, Medieval-1500

Period Costume : How to Make Classic Costumes from Cast-Off Clothing

Fabric for Use; G91-1028

Out

This Page is part of The Costumer's Manifesto, originally founded by Tara Maginnis, Ph.D. from 1996-2014, now flying free as a wiki for all to edit and contribute. Site maintained, hosted, and wikified by Andrew Kahn. Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike License; additional terms may apply. See Terms of Use for details. You may print out any of these pages for non-profit educational use such as school papers, teacher handouts, or wall displays. You may link to any page in this site.