Millinery by Jane Loewen 1925, Chapter 14: Color Harmony as Applied to theIndividualMillinery by Jane Loewen 1925, Chapter 14: Color Harmony asApplied to the Individual
COLOR HARMONY AS APPLIED TO THEINDIVIDUAL
I. PURPOSE OF COLOR IN ADORNING THE PERSON
II.COLOR VERSUS TEMPERAMENT
III.CHART OF COLOR COMBINATIONS SUITABLE TO VARIOUS TYPES
I. PURPOSE OF COLOR IN ADORNINGTHE PERSON
The purpose of all personal adornment is to enhance the beauty of the individual.
Garments are worn by wax models in a shop window to show the garments, not the models. She who wears her clothes to show them puts herself in the same relative position as the inanimate model.
This does not, mean that garments need not be smart, need not be beautiful - but the contrary. Who can know that a girl with olive skin, clear brown eyes, smooth brown hair is beautiful with a quaint and subtle charm of her own if she adopts the fads of the moment regardless of her own difference from other people? If she frizzes her hair and wears the blue, coral, and jades appropriate for a vivacious blond, her own charm is lost. She becomes merely one more like all the rest.
By choosing garments and styles that are in themselves attractive, regardless of their suitability, many girls who could be immensely attractive are merely second-rate editions of what they might be.
Uniformity may be desirable for an army or a penitentiary; I certainly it is necessary for the manufacturing of automobile parts or electrical appliances or tooth pastes. But no feminine being has any desire so to submerge herself in the masses.
The girl described should wear soft blue-greens, green-blues (pottery shades), Quaker gray, black with some oyster white, ivory or jade in relief, and some of the flame shades. Imagine this girl in a soft gray crepe or organdy gown with exaggerated collar and cuffs of ecru organdie in John Alden style, and a black brim hat of shepherdess lines with tea-rose facing. The effect is such as to make you see the girl as an interesting person of outstanding individuality. Smooth, shining hair and quaint collar attract one to the face of the wearer. Tea-rose flush brings out the color needed to make the pallor of an olive skin beautiful. Rich black velvet with long, plain lines, square neck, and a touch of jade in earrings or pendant, and a hat of black with irregular, soft lines makes her a portrait of distinct beauty.
A study of potential values in the appearance of an individual is the greatest asset in successful dressing of the individual. Color is one of the greatest helps in this matter of bringing out all the possibilities of beauty.
The first principle to remember in choosing colors for an individual is that you are working for just one thing - the glorification or beautifying of that person.
The beauty of a given color or color combination or garment is nonessential if it does not improve the looks of the person who is to wear it. An artist blends colors that they may give full value to each other. He uses colors complementary to one another, as a green with yellow tones with yellow for blending, or an orange-yellow with a blue-green for contrast. Each color is considered in relation to the other for the effect desired.
In dressing a woman, every color must be considered in relation to the effect desired, but it must be remembered that the desired color effect is essentially different from that worked for in mere color harmony. The color combinations must be harmonious both in themselves and as applied to the wearer.
The foundational element in all human beauty is an effect of health. An unhealthy person is never beautiful. A healthy-looking person is never quite ugly, whatever her features or coloring may be.
The desirable colors for milady's hat are those that give her the rosy glow of health. The obvious answer to this demand is rose, red, or pink. The less obvious is certain blues for certain types, certain greens, tans, browns, and black for others. There is also the infrequent exception of the girl with too much color.
II. COLOR VERSUS TEMPERAMENTWebster defines temperament as "the peculiar physical and mental character of an individual." It is because temperament includes two elements, physical and mental, that color versus the temperament of in individual becomes a matter of complication.
One's physical and mental individuality do not always match. Many a misshapen scrubwoman has the soul of a poet and is kindness itself. Too often the girl with limpid, violet eyes and rose-petal skin is the most soulless, selfish, and empty-headed of people.
Why not dress the body in colors that will enhance the expression of one's temperament? It is just as stupid to dress your body in ugly clothes as it is to fill your mind with cheap and ugly literature.
We are more than small who laugh when the apparently stolid and uninteresting person blossoms forth in gay and unseemly colors. But not all of us who love color have been taught the value of restraint and repression. Nor have all of us enough kindness to look for values underneath ugly exteriors. And since the Golden Age is not yet in sight and people not apt to be more patient and kindly, it behooves us to improve our externals and our own values as measured in the casual contacts of every-day life. Casual contacts are quite apt to shape our entire destiny in a work-a-day world.
Not even a fat woman need be uninteresting and unpleasant in appearance, and no one (except a diseased person) need be actually obese.
We say that a girl is handsome or homely according to whether or not her features and her physical person conform to accepted standards. Irregularity of features, however, need not keep one from being interesting, unusual, attractive, and popular. Study your set of features and your kind of body and make a fitting setting for them. If you have a gay and adventurous soul, give humanity some hint of it in your outer wrappings. In all casual or momentary meetings, we have the same status as package goods. No one is interested in a package of sweetmeats mussily and carelessly wrapped, if sweetmeats are to be had done up carefully and neatly.
Many girls with inward charm of person and intellect feel bitterly aggrieved because girls with more apparent but superficial charm attract attention. Such girls must learn to pay more attention to the outward expression of their inherent attractions. This work-a-day world is busy with the obvious, the well advertised. If the girl of retiring personality, of hidden depths of feeling and character, can learn to reveal and accentuate these qualities, she stands a far better chance of success in life than does the girl of flashing but shallow appeal.
III. CHART OF COLOR COMBINATIONSSUITABLE TO VARIOUS TYPES
CLEAR BRUNETTEOLIVE BRUNETTEMIXED BRUNETTECLEAR BLONDGOLDEN BLONDOLIVE BLONDMIXED TYPESTITANSCHESTNUTGOLDENGREEN- EYEDROSE
FLAME AND POPPY SHADES
ORANGE AND BITTERSWEET
FUCHSIA AND AMETHYST SHADES
JADE GREEN, PEACOCK, OLIVE
NILE AND RESEDA GREEN
CHINESE AND KING'S BLUE
GOLDEN YELLOW, CANARY,MARIGOLD, BUTTERCUP, GOLDEN GLOW
GREENISH YELLOW, CHARTREUSE, CITRON, (DEAD LEAF GREEN)
TAUPE, BATTLEWHIP MOLE
BEIGE, SAND,AND BARLEY
GOLDEN BROWN, TOBACCO, COCOA AND LEATHER
DARK BROWN, NEGRO, AND SEAL
1.What is the purpose of color in adorning the person?2.Should clothing be expressive of ourselves as we are, or as we should be?
3.Plan three costumes with hats which you consider suitable to your individuality.
4.Give three color schemes suitable for street wear for
a.The golden blond.
b.The clear brunette.
c.The mixed brunette.
5. In what fundamental way does the clothing of a wax model differ from that of an individual?
Millinery, by Jane Loewen 1925. Scanning and OCR by Karen Wood,layout by Karen Wood and Tara Maginnis.