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Berlin Cabaret Sleaze Project at The Costumer's Manifesto Costume Design & Construction Berlin Cabaret Sleaze

5 Design, 10 Construction Credits

PortfolioStudiocostumeshots3podress14.jpg

What you will need:

Mostly nylon bra and panties to fit performer

Old lace tights or nylons, any size

6 yards of 3/4" elastic in white.

Paintable or dyeable heeled shoes

Either a nylon nightgown/negligee with a sheer overlay OR a beaded/sequined chiffon dress with lining, OR 3-4 yards of translucent nylon lace.

3 garish colors of dye (Rit or Dylon are OK) that clash well together.

Any extra bits of beading, feathers, fringe, tacky jewelry, etc that is handy.

A close fitting hat or headband.

If at all possible, a garter belt.

Flesh colored tights or unitard if performer is modest.

Sewing Machine and dyepot.

File:H.t

Background:

ThreepennyKadesphotosPrint2.jpg The whores in

The Threepenny Opera at UAF were all done similarly to the Kit Cat Girls I did for

Cabaret, a few years earlier, but taken a step or so further. While the Kit Kat Girls wore sleeveless flesh toned unitards under their tatty lingerie, most of the actresses in 3PO opted out of this extra security. However even with full unitards from the torso down, the smoke and mirrors that this style provides made the Kit Kat's shown here:

PortfolioHiresnewCabaret5.jpg

CabaretPhotosTelephone3.jpg look spectacularly naughty. Because the eye looks through the lace, and sees visible underwear, we tend to assume anything flesh colored next to that underwear is, in fact flesh. So an actress in a see through wedding dress like this

ShowsThreepennyThrepen35.jpg

ThreepennyPhotos25560 25.jpg is automatically presumed to be showing her thighs peeking above the stockings, not the flesh toned tights that are what is really there:

ThreepennyPhotos25560 26.jpg

PortfolioStudiocostumeshots3podress7.jpg A design like this that includes translucent bits, and visible underwear thus tends to suggest to the audience's mind that they are very close to being "flashed"

ShowsThreepennyThrepen1.jpg when in fact, they are seeing very little. Here a beaded dress has it's solid lining cut away, so there are sections that are translucent.

ThreepennyPhotosDearmadam.jpg

ThreepennyPhotosSolomon.jpg

ShowsThreepennyThrepen10.jpgPlease note, what you think you see in the following photo, you aren't seeing.

ThreepennyPhotosJennydres.jpg What you ARE seeing is a flesh toned bra with nipple colored dots sewn to the cups. The reason it is believable is the fringe at the center and sides hide the hardware of the bra, and the "breasts" take on a vague quality by being seen through the floaty fabric. This allows a performer to shock while being comfortably supported, and technically, not naked. Here is the dress seen above made from a translucent nightgown.

Images254finals20021014.jpg

Images254finals20021015.jpg If you don't have a translucent night dress to sacrifice, you can pull the liner out of a beaded gown like this:

ThreepennyPhotosDearmadam.jpg or if you can't find a beaded gown cheap at a local thrift shop, you can build a variety of very simple sheath dresses like these below out of cheap lace. The patterns of many of of these are very simple, and shown in the little diagrams below each image.

AmazonBooksWomenswearofthe1920s.jpg

AmazonBooks1920sfashionsfrombaltmans.jpg

Images254finals20021016.jpg

Images254finals20021017.jpg

Images254finals20021018.jpg

254images8Cabaret1.jpg

PortfolioStudiocostumeshots3podress10.jpg

PortfolioStudiocostumeshots3podress11.jpg

254images8Cabaret2.jpg

254images8Cabaret3.jpg

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PortfolioStudiocostumeshots3podress13.jpg

254images8Cabaret4.jpg

PortfolioStudiocostumeshots3podress8.jpg

PortfolioStudiocostumeshots3podress9.jpg

PortfolioStudiocostumeshots3podress.jpg This dress is just a basic halter dress of lace

Images254finals20021019.jpg

Images254finals20021021.jpg

Images254finals20021022.jpgthese are both just simple drape jobs done on 1930's lines.

What To Do:

If you have a beaded dress, cut away the lining, so the dress is translucent. If you have a negligee with a sheer overlay, cut away everything but the overlay and what is holding it together. If you have nylon lace, cut off a length of the lace equivalent to the width of the fabric, (to make a big square).

Cut the lace hose or nylons off of the panties. With a Zig Zag stitch, sew elastic to the tops (while pulling gently on the elastic) to make self-garters.

Take the rest of the elastic, cut it in half and put both pieces with the dress/negligee/large piece of lace. Dye these the "main" color and paint the shoes to match. Dye the smaller lace square, and bra and panties with the second color, and the stockings (and hopefully garter belt) the third. If you have a feather boa, trim or hat feathers you can also tone them to match by sticking them in one of the dye mixes as well.

If you have lace to make a dress, cut the main body of lace into a pullover sheath like this,

and quarter the smaller square into 4 squares like this,

then insert the squares into the dress body like this, making the dress as long or short as your taste demands.

Use any excess lace bits, trim or feathers to decorate the hat or headband.

PortfolioStudiocostumeshots3pohat.jpg

To dress the performer, have her/him put on the flesh tone tights/body suit if desired, then put on the bra, panties, stockings (and optional garter belt) over this. Chris-cross the two elastic pieces under the foot and up the leg to tie under the knee, over the stockings. Put on the matching shoes. Put on the translucent dress, hat, and any other accessories you may have. Look

here for makeup ideas.

When you are finished, photograph the ensemble as jpeg files and post them to your File folder at the class

[1]. Post a message to the group letting everyone know you have posted your pictures so you can get feedback.

PhotoalbumTarapicsTaraasjenny2.jpg

PhotoalbumTarapicsTaraasjenny1.jpg Two photos of Tara in the costume for Jenny Diver for

Threepenny Opera (early 1920's Weimar style). Tara wore this as a hall costume at CCXV.

Return to

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Product Links

The Costume Book: The Non-Professional's Guide to Professional Results The Costume Book: The Non-Professional's Guide to Professional Results

Complete Book of Sewing Complete Book of Sewing

The Costume Designer's Handbook : A Complete Guide for Amateur and Professional Costume Designers The Costume Designer's Handbook : A Complete Guide for Amateur and Professional Costume Designers

The Costume Technician's Handbook : A Complete Guide for Amateur and Professional Costume Technicians The Costume Technician's Handbook : A Complete Guide for Amateur and Professional Costume Technicians

[2]

Costume Step-By-Step : The Complete Guide to Designing and Making Stage Costumes for All Major Drama Periods and Genres

The Magic Garment : Principles of Costume Design The Magic Garment : Principles of Costume Design

Costume Construction Costume Construction

The Costume Book: The Non-Professional's Guide to Professional Results The Costume Book: The Non-Professional's Guide to Professional Results

Madeleine Vionnet Madeleine Vionnet

Great Fashion Designs of the Twenties Paper Dolls in Full Color Great Fashion Designs of the Twenties Paper Dolls in Full Color

Making Latex Clothes Making Latex Clothes

Roaring Twenties Paper Dolls Roaring Twenties Paper Dolls

Women's Wear of the 1920's: With Complete Patterns

1920S Fashions from B. Altman & Company

Fashions of the Roaring '20s Fashions of the Roaring '20s

Cubism and Fashion Cubism and Fashion

"The Costumer's Manifesto"
by Tara Maginnis