COSTUMES.ORG -- THE COSTUMER'S MANIFESTO WIKI

History100pages18thwomenscut

The Costumer's Manifesto: The Cut of Women's Clothes 1700-1800

The Cut of Women'sClothes 1700-1800

18thcentWomenMantua.gif a mantua c.1700

The style ofWomen’s garments in the 18th Century reflect the improving status of women insociety. While the mantua

of the early 18th Century was a rather simple limp garment composed of two lengths offabric pinch pleated at the waist with wide soft sleeves sewn in, the mantua was graduallystiffened, decorated and expanded with hoops called panniers

until, by mid/century it had been stylized into the Robe de Francaise a doll-cake-likestructure that insured that a woman took up three times as much space as a man and alwayspresented an imposing and ultra feminine spectacle.

GeneralFairholt280.gif 1744, fromFairholt

After 1760, womenbegan to expand vertically as well, raising their hair with pads and pomade to a heightthat only a man on stilts could hope to emulate.

clink?wowwigs+sYZC9p+index.html+@160x120.jpg [1]

WigsHoey'shatsShiphair.gif

WigsHoey'shatsLargepouf.gif

After 1780, afashion for Rousseauesque naturalism took over and women adopted more "natural"looking fashions which still took up a considerable amount of space, but emphasized thenatural sexual characteristics of the female figure with padded busts and bottoms andriots of cascading hair.

18thcentWomen1780swoman.jpgFrench chic, c.1790-91

The 1790’s sawwomen’s dress lose its artificially supported dignity in favor of comfort andnaturalism. Not to be unnoticed however, late 18th Century women transferred theiremphasis from splendor to sex and discarded not only their false rumps but their underwearas well. The woman of 1800 proudly displayed the strength of her femininity with as muchforce as her mid-century predecessor.

18thcentWomenDaydressc.jpg France 1800

'The Plates:'

18thcentWomenMantua.gif a mantua

AccessoriesUnderwearHoop&corset.jpg Side hoops aka "panniers"

Paris200112Mvc-019f.jpg a sack-backed Robe de Francaise

GeneralMcclellanColorplate162-163.jpg An American woman's dress of 1711 and a man's costume of1702-1720 from McClellan

GeneralMcclellanColorplate164-165.jpg AnAmerican woman's dress of 1714-1727, a man's suit of the same period, from McClellan.

File:GeneralMcclellanFig182-185.gifFigures from McClellan1702-1725: A gentleman wearing a"Roquelaure" cloak and a fur muff c.1702-1714, a lady wearing a yellow gown of1714-1727 (back of dress in plate above), a lady in a c. 1720 green brocade gown nowhoused in the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, the gentleman on the right is wearing the coatshown in the plate above, c. 1714-1727.

GeneralMcclellanFig195-198.jpgPlate from McClellan: Left to Right: A plain moiré silkgown worn in Massachusetts c. 1725, A gown made of imported Chinese silk brocade worn bythe sister of the Governor of Massachusetts around 1735, a gentleman's full dress suit ofaround 1740, worn with a solitaire bow tie, A green silk taffeta gown worn in Philadelphiaaround 1740.

GeneralMcclellanFig204-207.jpg AmericanWomen's gowns shown in McClellan: Left-1752 wedding gown of a wealthy land owner'sdaughter from White Marsh Pennsylvania, left center- gown worn by Mrs. Faithful Hubbard inMassachusetts in 1750, right center- A green silk taffeta gown (same as above plate) wornin Philadelphia around 1740, with different accessories and petticoat of the same period,right- the same gown as seen from the back.

GeneralMcclellanWatteausacque.jpg A short sacque in biscut colored taffeta withhand painted fancy work of flowers and butterflies in watercolors. From McClellan

GeneralFairholt280.gif 1744, fromFairholt

GeneralFairholt284.gif 1750, Fairholt

(V&A Costume Collection)

MwbhImagesAntoinette2.jpg

MiniatureShoe 1750-1760 plates from McClellan: Blue-greenbrocade gown, suit of uncut velvet worn by Robert Livingston of New York c. 1760, back ofthe Pennsylvanian wedding gown of 1752 seen above.

GeneralMcclellanFig217-220.jpg 1760-1776plates from McClellan: Rear view of the suit of uncut velvet worn by Robert Livingston ofNew York c. 1760, Back view of an American white satin wedding gown of 1760 (front viewbelow, pattern on

18th century pattern page), Everydaycostume of a young lady of 1770-1776 made of chintz, suit for an elderly American man ofbusiness worn in Germantown, PA in the 1770's.

GeneralMcclellanFig228-231.jpg McClellanplates of 1760-1776: Light blue lutestring gown worn by Mrs. St. Clair,1760, Suit of darksatin worn by Robert Livingston, 1760 Wedding dress of Mrs. St. Clair, a suit of uncutvelvet worn by Robert Livingston.

GeneralFairholt289.gif 1770, Englishtown people, Fairholt

GeneralFairholt290.gif 1772, countrypeople, Fairholt

GeneralFairholt292.gif

Two versions of the Polonaise, seen worn at Ranelagh, 1775, from Fairholt.

18thcentWomenLadypalace1777.jpg a French court lady ofthe Queen's Palace 1777

18thcentWomenC1779lady.jpg

18thcentWomenC1779ladydetail.jpg 1779

GeneralMcclellanFig255-258.jpg Americancostumes of 1778-1790 from McClellan: Suit worn at the French court in 1778 by WilliamWest of Philadelphia, gown in the French style popular during the Revolution,Suit of drabcloth lined with green silk based on a print of 1786, dress of 1790.

GeneralMcclellanQuakercapeandcap1780.jpg Quaker cape and cap, 1780

18thcentWomen1780lady1.jpg

18thcentWomen1780lady2.jpg

Two portraits of other members ofthe French Royal Family c.1780.

GeneralFairholt295.gif 1786, English riding styles, from Fairholt

GeneralFairholt297.gif 1789-90, Fairholt

WomenSagesplates1780swoman.jpg

a fashionplate of c.1790

GeneralFairholt298.gif 1796 Englishfashions, from Fairholt

GeneralFairholt299.gif

An English court dress struggles in vain to look fashionably Neo-Classical with it'srequired, old fashioned hoop beneath. All the rest of Europe had discarded the hoop after1790. From Fairholt.

GeneralFairholt300.gif Normal Englishdress of 1799, Fairholt.

GeneralMcclellanFig340-344.jpg American dressof 1790-1800 from McClellan: man in a brown broadcloth "shad-belly" coat worn bya Mr. Johnson of Germantown, PA, c. 1790, mauve crepe gown worn by Mrs. Sartori, dress offine glazed cambric worn by Mme. Chevalier, c. 1797, man in the style of 1800, Muslindress worn by Deborah Logan of Philadelphia, 1797.

GeneralMcclellanPelissewithquiltborder.jpgAn American pelisse with a quilted hem, c.1800

Product Links

Costume Close Up : Clothing Construction and Pattern, 1750-1790 Costume Close Up : Clothing Construction and Pattern, 1750-1790

Period Costume for Stage & Screen : Patterns for Women's Dress 1500-1800 Period Costume for Stage & Screen : Patterns for Women's Dress 1500-1800

Fitting & Proper Fitting & Proper

Textiles for Colonial Clothing Textiles for Colonial Clothing

The Cut of Women's Clothes, 1600-1930 The Cut of Women's Clothes, 1600-1930

The Private Realm of Marie Antoinette The Private Realm of Marie Antoinette

Costumes at BuyCostumes Historic Colonial French Dress : A Guide to Re-Creating North American French Clothing Costumes at BuyCostumes Historic Colonial French Dress : A Guide to Re-Creating North American French Clothing

The History of Underclothes The History of Underclothes

Corsets and Crinolines Corsets and Crinolines

Miniature Shoe Everyday Dress of the American Colonial Period Coloring Book Miniature Shoe Everyday Dress of the American Colonial Period Coloring Book

Costume in Detail : 1730-1930 Costume in Detail : 1730-1930

Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwoman's Dresses and Their Construction: c.1660-1860 Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwoman's Dresses and Their Construction: c.1660-1860

Four Hundred Years of Fashion Four Hundred Years of Fashion

Eighteenth Century French Fashion Plates in Full Color Eighteenth Century French Fashion Plates in Full Color

Marie Antoinette

Domestic Service and Gender, 1660-1750 (Women and Men in History) Domestic Service and Gender, 1660-1750 (Women and Men in History)

Madame De Pompadour : Sex, Culture and Power Madame De Pompadour : Sex, Culture and Power

How To Dance through Time Vol. IV: The Elegance of Baroque Social Dance How To Dance through Time Vol. IV: The Elegance of Baroque Social Dance

Georgiana : Duchess of Devonshire Georgiana : Duchess of Devonshire

Madame De Pompadour Madame De Pompadour

Mary Wollstonecraft : A Revolutionary Life Mary Wollstonecraft : A Revolutionary Life

A Vindication of the Rights of Woman (Dover Thrift Editions) A Vindication of the Rights of Woman (Dover Thrift Editions)

The Gentleman's Daughter : Women's Lives in Georgian England The Gentleman's Daughter : Women's Lives in Georgian England

Queen of Fashion What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution Books Caroline Weber Queen of Fashion What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution Books Caroline Weber

Masterpieces of Women's Costume of the 18th and 19th Centuries Masterpieces of Women's Costume of the 18th and 19th Centuries

Marie Antoinette: The Last Queen Of France Marie Antoinette: The Last Queen Of France

"The Costumer's Manifesto"
by Tara Maginnis